The Hinged Hoop House 2.0

The hinged hoop house version 2.0.  Bigger and better than before.

Hinged hoop house sits on raised bed in large garden with blue skies in the background.

Skip right to the instructions.


If you were hanging around here a year ago you saw me give birth to my original hinged hoop house. I say give birth because I was as proud of it as most women are of their first born. Also it took around a day and a lot of grunting to bring it into the world.

But as one does with their first child, I made a lot of mistakes. Mistakes I was able to rectify with the second!  Version 2.0 of the hinged hoop house is very similar to the first, with a few changes. Last year I found my original hoop houses weren’t quite tall enough to accommodate a full grown black kale or Brussels sprouts plant. Not that I really care about the Brussels sprouts, I hate them, but I grow them because they look pretty and it’s hard to look pretty when you’re all hunched over and bent.

I also had some holes chewed into the netting over the winter by delinquent voles or mice and to replace the netting I would have had to unscrew all kinds of wood pieces that I had used to secure the netting in the Hinged Hoop House version 1.0  So I rethought that and came up with what I think is a really good solution.

The original was also a tiny bit wiggly so I beefed it up a little and improved on the top cross bar that holds everything steady.

All of the materials I’ve listed are available at a regular hardware store, other than the extra wide insect netting, which I’ve linked to on Amazon.

Ready for it?

Hinged Hoop House 2.0

Materials –  (For an 8’x4′ raised bed.)

8′ lengths of 2x4s, (3)

4′ length of 2×2, (1)

10′ lengths of 1/2″ Schedule 40 electrical conduit, (6)

Clamps for 1/2″ conduit, (12)

3-4 hinges

24″ lengths of chain, (2)

1/2″ PVC “Ts”, (2)

1/2 ” PVC cross, (1)

Insect netting, (wide and long enough to cover completed hoops)


Variety of screws

Screwdriver or drill

Partial list of supplies needed for building a hinged hoop house laid out on soil, including 2x4s, conduit, clamps and connectors.

You’ll find the white PVC fittings in the plumbing aisle of the hardware store and the grey, conduit and fittings in the electrical aisle.

Some of the hardware needed to build a hinged hoop house set on 2x4s including conduit clamps, a handle, hinges, pvc connectors and chain.

I need another hinge, because you should really use 3 or 4 but I only had 2 in my stash so I’ll add another one when I go to the hardware store and pick another couple up.


  1. Cut your 8′, 2×4’s to the length and width of your current raised bed.

Karen Bertelsen assesses her tools laid out on a garden potting bench before building a hinged hoop house. Blue skies seen in the background.

2. Lay all your cut 2×4 pieces on your raised bed and screw them together.

Karen Bertelsen in a large garden screwing together a frame to support a hinged hoop house to protect vegetables from insects.

3. For added strength and to prevent any warping screw a 2×2 into the centre of the frame.

Karen Bertelsen kneeling down to screw in a support bar across the frame of a hinged hoop house she's building in a large garden.

3. Screw in your hinges.

Karen Bertelsen screws hinges into the long end of a hoop house frame to allow it to open and close.

4. Cut 3 of the electrical conduit into 57″ lengths.  This will create hoops that are tall enough for kale, pepper plants and brussels sprouts. If you’re growing lower things like cabbage, you can shorten the lengths of your conduit for lower hoops.

Hinged hoop house frame build, with lengths of electrical conduit laying across the top, ready to be attached.

5. Screw the plastic clamps to the inside of the 2×4 frame. Each section of pipe will have 2 clamps holding it in place.  Screw the top clamp in first.  To get a straight line between two clamps, insert a piece of pipe into the top clamp and then screw in the bottom clamp around the pipe, like you see below.

Screwing electrical conduit clamps into the 2x4 frame of a hinged hoop house with big blue skies overhead.

6. Once all your clamps are in, attach 2 pieces of your 57″ pipe at the centre using a PVC T.  You can glue these, but I didn’t in case I wanted to change things.  Stick one end of the pipe into its clamps then slowly and carefully bend the pipe to fit in the opposite clamps. Pay attention to your PVC T and make sure it’s sitting straight, ready to accept the top horizontal rail later on. (you don’t want it pointing up or down)

Karen Bertelsen bends electrical conduit into place in clamps on the interior frame of a hinged hoop house.

7. Screw the pipe into the frame to keep it from slipping up or down.

Electrical conduit secured with clamps and a screw keeps hoops of the hinged hoop house from shifting.

8. Continue doing this until all your hoops are built and secured.  For the middle hoop you’ll be using the PVC cross, as opposed to the PVC T.

Karen Bertelsen in Blue Jays t shirt bends conduit into place on a hinged hoop house she's building in a large garden.

9. Measure the space between the top of the hoops and cut 2 lengths of conduit to create the top bar across the hoop house.


Midway through building a hinged hoop house in a large community garden, the frame is built and the hoops are in place waiting for the cross bar to be put in place.

10. Insert the 2 pieces of newly cut conduit across the top of the hoops, inserting it into the PVC Ts and PVC cross.

Completed hinged hoop house in a large community garden, waiting for the last step, placing insect netting around it.

11. Cut your final 2 lengths of conduit to 8′ long (or however long your frame is) and screw it onto the outside of both long ends of the frame like you see above.  You’ll use these to clip the netting to once it’s on.

12. To hold the bunched up sides of the net in place I used a piece of 1″ conduit and a piece of old garden hose. You’ll see how it holds the netting in a second.  This is the one area of the hoop house that could be improved upon and probably will be.  I just used the spare materials I had at the garden to make it work.

***I’ve left these things out of the materials list because they were weird random things I found and I’m sure you can make something similar work out of your own garbage***

A 5" piece of 1" pipe attached to the outside end of a hoop house frame, secured with a small length of garden house screwed around the pipe like a clamp.

13. Drape your netting over the hoop frame.  Do NOT attempt to do this on a windy day by yourself; it will end with tears and parasailing.

Laying lightweight insect netting over the frame of a hinged hoop house in a large garden.



14.  Clip the netting to the lengths of conduit on the outside of the frame. I just used plant clips that I got at Dollarama but I’ve ordered these clips from Amazon which will be a bit more discrete and a bit stronger.

I could have used this same technique for the sides of the hoop house instead of what I scrabbled together but I was worried that becaase there’s so much extra fabric on the ends of the hoop house that it would be difficult to fold it all together neatly.  I think I was wrong.  I may still try to do the ends the same as I did the sides.


15. Twist the netting together tightly on the ends and slip it through your small piece of 1″ tube (or whatever you decide to use).  You’ll have to pull it tightly and work it through.  Once it’s through, pull the netting so it’s even and then tie the end in a knot so it can’t slip out.

This is the side section I mentioned could be improved upon for holding the side of the netting. It’s a bit inelegant but it works. The fabric has to be held tight but I wanted something that was also easy to remove if I have to change out the netting.


Securing netting at the side of the hinged hoop house with a tube and garden hose.

14.  Attach a length of chain between the raised bed frame and the hinged hoop house. This will hold the lid open when you lift it and prevent it from tipping all the way over to the ground.

TIP:  You can also get fancy and use gas struts. I may do that in the future.

Chain used to hold open the heavy frame of a hinged hoop house runs from the raised bed frame to the hoop house frame.
15. Add a handle for opening and closing the frame.

Your hinged hoop house is built!

The best defence against cabbage moth and other insects, a hinged hoop house sits in a large garden plot waiting to be planted with vegetables.

Now all that’s left to do is fill it with vegetables.  Pepper plants will be going in this one.  Have you ever grown peppers that you thought were perfect, but when you cut them open you realized they were rotted on the inside and mushy? That’s from the pepper maggot. A fly lands on the pepper plant when it’s very young and lays an egg under the skin of the pepper. That egg hatches into a maggot which lives in and consumes the entire inside of your pepper until it rots, and the maggot eats its way out of the pepper. This hoop house prevents all that.

This hoop house is much heavier to open and close than the first one was because it’s made with 2x4s instead of 2x2s, plus it has the wood cross bar. I’d estimate it weighs about 20 pounds.

To prevent critters from gnawing away on the netting in the winter it’s very easy now for me to remove the netting for the season. It wasn’t easy with the first version of this hoop house.   I can also, if I want, just prop open the lid so any critters can come and go easily without chewing through anything in the winter.  I wasn’t smart enough to think of that logical solution myself, an Instagram reader said that’s what I should do.

Otherwise leaving the netting on wasn’t a problem. Snow just slid right off of it.

Oh.  And because I’d done it once already it took a lot less grunting and time to bring this second one into the world. As is often the case.

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The Hinged Hoop House 2.0


  1. Derek says:

    Hiya, I made one per your spec last year, albeit a smaller one, to keep pigeons off my lettuces, I only needed to use bird mesh and it worked beautifully! At the moment I have early peas seeded into the frame and to give them some protection from upcoming frosts I put a piece of flat plastic strip (an offcut from a soffit board) so that its bowed up slightly (just cut it a bit longer than the width and jam it in) and then put a piece of clear plastic bag over it so it hung over the edge all round. when the frames shut you can pull the plastic out all round to tighten it up. Thanks for the inspiration Karen.

  2. Lindy Pierce says:

    Karen, after a year of use, would you change your design or any elements? My beds are longer than yours so I’m thinking the 2×4’s would make frame too heavy for me to lift. Do you feel that your original 2×2 framing would work with the 2.0 version upgraded elements?
    Also, thank you for all the laughs and encouragement along the way!

    • Karen says:

      Hi Lindy! I think you’d still be able to lift the hoops at that weight, but I’m worried they wouldn’t be very stable. I suppose if you used a lot of hinges that would help a bit. The 2×2 framing is less stable so I’m not sure if that would be a solution. If you could figure out a way to do a better job of bracing the frame it could work. The only thing I would do differently (and I could still do it) is to make a little lock or hook and eye at the bottom of the frame to lock it into place because if you bump it just a little bit it can shift the top slightly enough for voles etc. to get in. ~ karen!

  3. Jennifer says:

    These are exactly what I need! But our beds are way bigger. How do I do the math to calculate the height of the hoops?

  4. Robin says:

    13 – “Do NOT attempt to do this on a windy day by yourself; it will end with tears and parasailing.”

    Tears…. flowing down your face or ripping your netting asunder? Both?

    Parasailing….. if you were to quickly grab the ends of your traveling netting, you could have birdseye view of the gardens. Be a drone. You can do it, Karen.

    Great job on the hoop house. A facsimile will be in my garden within the week. Thank you.

  5. Jody says:

    Brilliant. If it were taller you could use it as a wedding tent.

  6. Cussot says:

    That thing isn’t a hoop house – it’s a hoop cathedral! I love the, um, ruching? Whatever, it’s brilliant.

  7. Vicky Evans says:

    Hey Karen, I am going to make one of these to go over the lettuce mixes this year. I hate picking out worms. I’m building it according to your plan so thanks for continuing to improve each year. I found some PVC clamps I might try on a website called Charley’s Greenhouse & Garden that I’m going to order. They are a bit more than the ones from Amazon but I like the look of them. 1725 Medium Snap Clamps 10 per pak – for use with ½” Black Poly or PVC Pipe (B7725 0.5). They come in 3 different diameters. Keep up the good work, we all depend on your knowledge.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Vicky. Yes, those are good looking clamps! There are even nicer ones, but I don’t have a link for them. The problem was to find them in Canada they were just way too much money for how many clamps I wanted. Those ones are probably particularly good because they probably have a bit more flexibility than the ones I ended up ordering. ~ karen!

      • ecoteri says:

        at one point in time my (now-ex) partner made a greenhouse using a carport frame (you know the kind you can get at Canadian Tire for storing your spare car). He covered ran some extra wires along the top from end to end, and put greenhouse plastic over it. He bought plastic pipe just a bit bigger than the metal pipes of the carport frame, and cut it into 6 or 8 inch lengths – and cut a slit down one side. he put the plastic on the frame, then clipped over the plastic with his homemade clips. Worked like a hot damn.

  8. Miriam Mc Nally says:

    Karen, I don’t often comment but I think your 2nd born is a thing of beauty. Congratulations!
    I’d be soooo tempted to build one of these, I think it looks fab, especially the bunched and pleated netting; I really like the effect of it.
    If you want to further deter critters, just add a few drops of peppermint essential oil to the soil before you come over your netting.

  9. Lesley says:

    Hmm, I wonder if I could modify your design – metal mesh instead of netting – to keep the rabbits from devouring my beautiful dwarf sumac over the winter. They very nearly killed it this year.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Lesley. I have two other hinged houses (which you might be able to see a bit of in this post, but definitely in other garden posts. They are triangular as opposed to round. It’s much easier to work with the straight angles of a triangle when working with wire mesh. I made my triangular houses with brackets that I got at Lee Valley but they don’t carry them anymore. You should be able to make it without the brackets though. ~ karen!

  10. Madeline Hendrickson says:

    Hi Karen: Just one concern, you recommend Amazon for your materials, which is US. What about Lee Valley Tools, since you do articles for them and they are Canadian. Just sayin’

    • Karen says:

      Lee Valley doesn’t carry these items (the clips or the extra large insect netting). ~ karen!

      • Madeline says:

        Do you have a Peavey Mart near you? I go through the Lee Valley catalogue and then go shop at Peavey Mart. Very Canadian and everything–truly–from work socks, to chicken and bee keeping supplies, to plumbing and kitchen wares. I love my local one. They are popular out here in the West (Alberta).

  11. Bobbie S says:

    What she said. :-) You come up with the most fantastic ideas… and give instructions on how to. Glad that you are hinged now and not… um.. unhinged. LOL Love it!

  12. Edward F Morrow says:

    Very nice,
    The technique of gathering the screening at the ends is clever. It solves a problem and looks good.


  13. Kat says:

    This is awesome!
    I love the balance of purchased items to scrounged items. The older I get, the more I can scrounge from previous projects. Some might call it hoarding, I call it preparation, lol!
    Can you do a follow-up on which plants need pollination to set fruit/veg, and how to time when to leave the netting off to allow pollinator access?

    • Karen says:

      HI Kat. I only put things that don’t require pollination in my hoop houses. Luckily those are the things that I have insect problems with. Brussels Sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, peppers, swiss chard and kale. To name a few. ;) All of these things either don’t use pollination or they self pollinate (peppers). I was working in the garden tonight making a couple of other low tunnels and I was doing it with scrounged materials and thought to myself …. it would have been smarter to just go out and buy more stuff. It took AGES to make my scrounged bits work. But I had them so ….. I used them, lol. ~ karen!

  14. MaryJo says:

    Wow, just wow! Frankly, I hate gardening but this is a great post, Karen, with clear instructions and excellent photos. Even I would be able to construct a hoop house by following your step-by-step directions…if I were into gardening, which I’m not. Brava!!

  15. Ann Roberts says:

    A suggestion or 2 from someone who has been making these sorts of things for years now.

    Any plain PVC piping will work but most will degrade quickly in the sun and elements. But you can use Rustoleum spray on them with a UV blocker and it will last much much longer. But eventually all this will start to get very very brittle. I hope someday to be able to actually make some out of metal conduit. They do sell tube benders for this exact purpose.

    The screening is something I do finally have figured out. I buy large pieces of greenhouse screening thru greenhouse supply houses. Some gardening catalogs are starting to carry it as well. So far I have pieces that are totally intact after 5 years of moving it all around the garden, using it where and when I needed it.

    I also don’t attach my screening to the frame now. I keep the frames pretty much permanent for each bed. I oversize the screening and just drape it over the frame and use clips specially designed to go over PVC. You can get them to match any size PVC you choose to use.

    Without my covers, many crops wouldn’t make it here. Simply too many bugs. But with I can grow organically all the way. No chemicals, even organic ones get used anymore. Also the greenhouse screening offers very slight protection from the sun so I can get lettuce, kale, ect to go a bit longer here for me in the south.

  16. whitequeen96 says:

    Brilliant! As usual. I’m sure you are a certified genius!

  17. g Sharon Jones says:

    Beautiful new baby! And useful too. Sorry I missed your first but so happy to have witnessed your second in a timely manner. Very much enjoy your view on stuff & am glad I found you. Blessings

  18. Mary Edmondson says:

    That’s some genius design and engineering, and an impressive accomplishment. I am curious to know how and who does all the photography on your garden posts. Some of the shots seem to be from about ladder height. These posts are labor intensive, time sucking, energy depleting masterpieces – every single one of them. Your indoor shots of foods and such are artistic and visually delightful. You are very very good at what you do and your followers appreciate you. Thanks, Karen

    • Karen says:

      Thanks Mary. I do all the photos for all the posts. And I do climb up on ladders. I also have timers on my camera for taking shots, and remote controls to take pictures when I’m in the actual shot. ~ karen!

  19. Tina says:

    I found grubs this week. (Sorry, off topic) They’re white and round and in my flower garden area. Which I cleared out after winter came. Do I evict them? How? But also I went to look at the flowers in sort of a waste area and my phlox and lavender was COVERED in monarchs! I’m afraid to breathe, for fear I frighten them!

  20. Sarah Jackson says:

    Huh. Pretty good. Amazing. So many bugs in Florida. You are a GENIUS. And I rarely say that.

  21. Cool!! Love it!

    … and BTW…you look really fit and wonderful!

    Great muscles, Girlfriend!

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