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How to Pour Self Levelling Cement

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First things first. I ate a whole can of Pringles today. They were Salt & Vinegar and now my tongue feels like I ate a ball of sandpaper.

Second things second. Why would you ever want to pour self levelling cement? Well, I’m not sure actually. I don’t know you that well.

But … you might want to level out a wonky basement floor. Or garage. Or kitchen. Or like me, you may need to encase radiant floor heating and create a super-smooth surface to lay commercial VCT tile onto.

Whatever the reason, you don’t need to be afraid. I say that because I was afraid. Really afraid. Letter from the tax department afraid.

So I did all the research I could, tested out the product in a small area of the house where it wouldn’t matter if I screwed it up and declared it a success.

And it wasn’t hard at all. I was probably right to be afraid because it made me very thorough in my research, but having done it myself now there are a few things I discovered that weren’t mentioned on the Internet at all.

I’ll mention those things in this tutorial because I am nice. I am a nice girl who pours cement sometimes.

 

Scrape up any loose debris from the floor. Like old tile.

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Vacuum the surface before pouring the cement.

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Self levelling cement is liquidy.  Very liquidy. You need to build dams out of thin wood or stiff cardboard to stop it  from running into areas you don’t want it to go.

I just attached it with duct tape which worked fine.  Once the cement has hardened just give a tug upwards and the cardboard or wood will come loose.

Behind the dam I’ve built you can see I’ve also repaired holes. I used Durabond 90 for this (a drywall type compound that is very hard and fast drying).

The reason you need to fill holes and cracks in the floor is because the cement is so thin it will just run down those small cracks and you’ll never get your cementing done.  You’ll have to keep adding more and more cement and you might even go crazy.  I’m not sure. Again, I don’t know you that well or your coping capabilities.

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Your materials.

Self levelling cement, a cement mixing paddle, a strong drill, a 5 gallon bucket, a trowel and filler (Durabond 90).

Self levelling cement may also be called self levelling concrete, self levelling floor resurfacer or self levelling underlayment.

You need to pay special attention to the self levelling cement you buy.  Home Depot, Rona, Lowes etc. all of carry different brands of cement.

The brand doesn’t matter so much as the type of self levelling cement.

There are 2 types.  Quick drying and regular.

Quick drying self levelling cement is great when the room you’re doing NEEDS to be dry enough to walk on within 5 or 6 hours. BUT, this advantage comes with disadvantages.  You only have a small amount of time to work with the product before it starts to set up.  Like 5 minutes or so.  This means if you’re new to the process or are working by yourself you run the risk of screwing things up royally.

Even though I was pouring cement into our only bathroom and kitchen I did not use Quick Drying self levelling cement.  Firstly it was much more expensive than the regular drying stuff AND I knew I needed as much working time with it as possible.

Regular drying self levelling cement gives you much more time in between pouring buckets of it.  It starts to set up fairly quickly, within 15 minutes or so but not nearly as quickly as the quick drying stuff.  Those extra 10 minutes make a huge difference when you don’t know what the hell you’re doing.

Primer All of the self levelling cements require that you buy bottles of primer as well to coat your floor with prior to pouring the concrete.  It is a rule.  You are told you absolutely have to do it no matter what.  You risk ruining everything if you don’t use it. Strangely I couldn’t find any real reason as to why.  No one explained what the primer actually did.  Did it seal?  Don’t know.  Did it make the concrete stick better?  Don’t know.  But you HAD to use it.

I didn’t use it.

My house did not fall into the abyss but I could feel Mike Holmes scowling from somewhere.

The reason I didn’t use it is because I bought my self levelling cement from a store mainly used by contractors, NOT a big box store.  When I asked them where the primer for the self leveller was they looked at my quizzically.  They didn’t carry it.  They had never carried it, and in all the years they’d been selling self levelling cement no one had asked to buy the primer.  The professionals just didn’t use it.

Good enough reason for me.

Besides.  It was more money saved.  I took a risk here but it was fine and nothing went wrong. I can’t guarantee nothing will go wrong for you.  Why am I so worried about the cheaper materials and saving money?  Because self levelling cement is expensive.  I got away with spending $200 on my cement.  If I had bought it at a big box store and used the primer it would have cost me $500.

How else can you save money?  Ask to buy the open bags.  Most stores have opened, ripped, unattractive bags for sale for half the price or even less. I bought a lot of open bags and saved about $120.

 

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The  cement mixing paddle is NOT the same as a paint mixing paddle so if you have one of those, leave it in the basement and buy a cement mixer.  They’re between $10 and $15.

Add the required amount of water to the bucket FIRST.

(the bag will tell you how much water to cement mix to use)

 

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Add about 1/4 – 1/3rd of the bag of cement. Mix with drill.

Continue mixing in the remainder of the bag bit by bit until it’s all incorporated.  Mix for prescribed amount of time as detailed on the bag.

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 Now here’s a good tip…

GO RENT AN INDUSTRIAL DRILL.

For one bucket of concrete a strong cordless drill will do the job, but if you have any more than 1 bucket to do you’re in trouble.  The battery will die after 1 or 2 buckets.  Then you’ll go for your corded drill, which will burn out and will get thrown in the garbage.

So save your anger, save your sanity, save your relationship and RENT AN INDUSTRIAL DRILL.  After one day of trying to do this without one I went out and rented a drill for $20 for half a day.  It sped things up by about 10 fold.

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Pour your cement.

The cement will be quite thin.  Like runny pudding.  Self levelling is a bit of a misconception.  It will find its own “level”, but it needs some help getting there.

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Trowel

 

Using a trowel push and pull the cement where it needs to go.  Push it into corners and pull it towards you.  Excuse my hair.  It appears I was having a Paul Weller moment.

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This mudroom is around 30 square feet and one bag of cement just barely covered it at about 1/4″ thickness.

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Clean up the Drips

You’re gonna drip.  Drip and spray and splash.  Just wipe up what you can and then don’t worry about it.  It’ll wash off easily later.

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Done

 

The room was dry enough to walk on about 24 hours later and dry enough to put the freezer and other stuff back in there in 3 days.  It couldn’t have gone better.

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The kitchen and bathroom were a bit of a different story.  The mudroom was the test room. It went perfectly.  The kitchen and bathroom were bigger … badder. A bigger room means you have to pour the buckets of concrete, run back to the mixer and mix up another batch (which needs to be mixed a longgg time), run through the house with a 50 pound bucket of cement and pour it where you left off.  And repeat.

I thought I bought plenty of cement but it turns out I didn’t.  By 10 o’clock at night we realized between the cordless drills, the diminishing cement and the crankiness it was time to stop.

After the first go round the Warmly Yours pads were still showing and it obviously wasn’t looking very good.

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So the next day I rented a drill, bought more cement and got to it.  I abandoned my rubber boots and went barefoot like the cement  pouring hippy that I am.  I recommend you go barefoot as well.  You can walk right through the cement, no problem, and as you walk away the cement just fills in your footprints. Magic.

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For these bigger rooms I bought a squeegee on a long handle to push and pull the cement.  It worked great but it was a bit difficult to manipulate in the small bathroom.

 

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You’ll find bits of unmixed lumps of cement.  Just mush them with your fingertips.

 

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As it’s drying the floor will look discoloured and uneven. It’s all an optical illusion.

 

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Once it’s dry you’ll be able to feel that those bits that look like ridges are actually smooth.

 

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Even after re-levelling the floor I had issues with dips and bumps.  It was easy to correct them with a bit of Durabond 90.

 

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My floor was now ready to lay the VCT tiles.  I’m not necessarily saying I’m ready.  But the floor is.

p.s.  I’m out of chips.


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178 Comments | Filed Under: Kitchen, Workshop |

178 Responses to How to Pour Self Levelling Cement

  1. Pam'a says:

    Wow, Karen. I can’t believe you could pour cement with your hair looking subpar.

    ::snicker::

    Serious now: I bow to your fearless, inspirational ambition and energy. It appears things came together in a magnificent way. Brava! :)

  2. Susan Preston says:

    Hard, huh? I mixed, my friend tried smoothing the stuff out all over my bake shop floor. Bags and bags and bags of that runny stuff. We’d come in the next day expecting a smooth surface and find another hollow! And start all over again. I mixed by hand till my shoulders felt like they were going to fall off! But the floor looks like it was worth all the work! Even if it did hold up the opening date by at least 2 weeks! And depleted my pocketbook even more! Yours is looking great! Oh by the way I wouldn’t walk in it in my bare feet either. Yuck! And I have chips if you need some more! I’ll send them over via Glynnis my chicken!

    • Karen says:

      Glynnis? Is she new? I don’t think I’ve heard of Glynnis! ~ karen

      • Susan Preston says:

        Glynnis is my Ameracuna. She’s an old girl but new to me! A “rescue” chicken so to speak. I have got two blue eggs from her. One last Aug. 25th…my oldest daughters birthday and one this last Saturday.. My youngest daughter’s birthday! Can’t wait to see the finished product! Keep working girl! The heat’s acoming!

  3. Auntiepatch says:

    I’ll say it again; you’re my hero!

  4. Lori says:

    Nice job!! wish I had the gumption to do that ! Please keep up the good work cause you are very inspiring! Maybe I’ll get the gumption to do this in the near future.

  5. stephbo93 says:

    I’m a little creeped out by the photo where the vacuum seems to be moving all by itself but overall, I’m really impressed. Thanks for showing us how to use this stuff! And I totally feel your pain on those chips. I love them, but my mouth always feels like one giant pucker afterwards.

  6. Judy Bickford says:

    You forgot one thing. Do not let your husband ( or fella) help. Had to level two bathrooms last week due to moving a few walls around. We mixed 2 bags and poured. No problem, but needed another bag for the first bathroom. Since I was mixing, I kept telling him to stop adding more water, but, of course, he did. When we poured that third bag, the consistency was thinner and it dammed up against the first pour. Then, he tried to smooth it around but because it was thinner, it just kept getting worse. Butterscotch ripple without the butterscotch. Thankfully, our friend does ceramic and rescued the floor. Otherwise, we’d have to pour more cement and our toilet would be teetering on top of extensions on extensions. Second floor went much better.

    • Stephanie says:

      Boys will be boys…mine decided to suck up CARPET PADDING CHUNKS with the vacuum cleaner. “Don’t do that” I said. “You’ll burn out the motor” I said. *sigh*

    • Suzie says:

      How, exactly, did your ceramic friend rescue the butterscotch problem?

  7. Sebrah says:

    You make it look so easy! I feel ready to tackle anything now.
    I mean yesterday I even weeded a whole massive patch in the garden. I don’t weed. In fact I don’t garden and people like you Karen make me actually kind of want to do this stuff!
    Loving the progress, great work :-)

    • Karen says:

      LOL. Thanks for letting me know Sebrah. That’s the point of this whole site. :) But you don’t have to do everything I do. Just do what you like. :) Mind you … nobody likes weeding and that needs to get done so … do what you like .. .plus the few things that *have* to be done. ~ karen!

  8. Laura Bee says:

    I’m hoping I can get away without this step before I put down my tiles. But if I do, I’m doing it barefoot!

  9. KimS says:

    I have SO done that Pringles thing with salt and vinegar chips! I’ve never done the concrete thing and hope I never have to, but I’m sure I’ll do the Pringles thing again…for some reason I can’t stop until it’s too late! Love your posts!!!

  10. Terry says:

    Karen,

    Is that cement actually thick enough so that it will not crack if the floor deflects when something heavy goes over it. Or you jump up and down when the muffins turn out perfectly. Just curious. But you did a great job. Looks amazing. Did it ruin the nail polish on your toes??

    • Karen says:

      Terry – The self levelling cement is made to be poured from a consistency of 1/8th an inch to over an inch. It’s not the same as concrete, it’s a different mix. So yes .. it’ll be fine when I jump up and down. But it would never be for muffins. I might jump up and down for the perfect pizza. ~ karen!

  11. Reg says:

    Holy smokes. Job well done. Did you have enough time to get the cement washed off your feet before it dried? I have visions of you not being able to tilt because you’ve been self levelled. ;)

  12. Maureen Locke says:

    You’re so brave !!!

  13. Ana the Hated (@ParrotTalkBack) says:

    An incredibly daunting project completed with aplomb. Makes me feel shitty I’ve put off hanging the curtains for so long…

  14. Colleen says:

    You are brave! Thanks for sharing, Karen!

  15. Ruth says:

    Wow! Just….. wow. *awestruck*

  16. Nicole2 says:

    Oh wow, I’m so impressed! Is there nothing you can’t do?? I don’t think I know anybody else who can eat an entire can of Pringles!!! Way to go!

  17. Kim says:

    Damn…gravatar didn’t work. So bummed. Took FOREVER to find that post *lol*

  18. Meagan says:

    Impressive! I will never tackle something like this myself but I really enjoy learning about it. It makes me more knowledgable for when I talk to contractors I hire to do this stuff :-) I’m curious as to what the reddish flooring is that you are putting the cement over in the mudroom? Did it contain asbestos…is that why it was left intact?

    • Karen says:

      Hi Meagan – It’s just old vinyl sheet flooring. It’s glued down to plywood underneath and there just wasn’t any reason to go to the effort of removing it. ~ karen!

  19. gogothrift@etsy.com says:

    OMG OMG OMG
    that’s all I have to say

  20. Kat says:

    Way to go Karen!!! Great tip on the “rent a drill” I would never have thought of that one. Also, except for the durabond patches in the last picture the concrete looks kinda cool and I would have been tempted just to stop there and put on a sealer.

  21. JebberA says:

    You are my heroine. I respect you as a role model *and* i’m addicted to your website :o)

    Sorry about your mouth. I’ve had a simliar injuriy after eating Captain Crunch.

  22. Call Me Patty says:

    Yep…..HE-RO!!!

  23. Tina says:

    Karen, is there a reason why you didn’t remove the baseboards? I’m assuming they act as a dam. But does it not make it difficult (impossible?) to replace the baseboards later?

    On a different note… You remind me of my mom. She was always fearless at tackling any sort of task. Build a 12 foot tall retaining wall out of railroad ties? Done. Train a horse wild off the range — best horse ever btw? Done. Raise a zoo of animals for her “tribe of monkeys.” Done. She’s a great role model, as are you.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Tina – It’s hard to see in the pictures, but for the most part, the baseboards are raised up from where I removed the flooring beneath them. So the cement actually went *under* the baseboards. The are a couple of small spots (only 5″ runs or so where baseboards go along solid cabints) where that isn’t the case, but if the time ever comes to replace the baseboards, they’ll be easy enough to remove with a crowbar and a whack of a hammer. ~ karen!

  24. Jeannie B says:

    A project like this just “blows my mind” Karen. This is something I could only do inside a nightmare. I’d be afraid of permanently bonding the friidge or the stove to the floor and having to hire simeone to jackhammer them out. Or, the back door getting stuck and never being able to get it to open again. Or, standing in one place a little too long in my bare feet and getting stuck. You really are amazing! And yet, you make it all look so easy.

  25. Sally says:

    Thanks for this. We’ve been putting off doing a bathroom because it is going to need leveling. You are just the thing to encourage us to move ahead on it. I love everything that you do.

  26. Nancy Blue Moon says:

    I never doubted you..not for one minute..In my next life..I want to come back as you..

  27. Linda S says:

    I must say…I’m impressed with you, and impressed with the project. Great job, and I will be listing it in my notebook full of projects I never want to tackle!

  28. Katie C says:

    Well, Karen. Awestruck. Just awestruck! In fact, we have a kitchen floor that is strangely not level–where the eating area meets the workspace, the linoleum sort of slopes sharply down, oh, 2 inches or so. Sort of a sunken kitchen. But not in a good way! Your stunning post is making me think that maybe, just maybe….this is a project that is fixable and not something that means we’ll have to live here for the rest of our lives because no one else in the world would ever buy a house with this odd affliction… (why did we??) You have made me realize we might be able to move somewhere else, sometime in this lifetime! I thank you for that, Karen.

    And btw, did you just leave the mudroom floor as cement, sans tile? Kind of cool, if so. Thanks for your awesomeness.

  29. Susan says:

    Thank goodness the place I’m looking at doing this is small. It looks great so far, and the self-leveling stuff looks like something you managed well in large quantity and I could manage in small quantity. Do you need the self-leveling concrete only if you’re using “soft” tiles, or do you also need it if you are using ceramic tiles? I’m as certain that you’ve mentioned the answer to this already, as I am that I’ve forgotten it already. I can’t wait to see the finished project. You truly are an inspiration to us all.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Susan – The self levelling concrete is only needed if you’re laying heated floors and will be laying VCT tiles over top. If you’re laying heated floors with ceramic over top you would not use self levelling cement, but regular tile cement like you normally would with laying ceramic tile. ~ karen!

  30. Julia says:

    My husband has just caught me reading this post and is now slightly perturbed that I may be thinking of self-levelling something.
    I suppose he is right to be worried – we didn’t have chickens until I discovered ‘The Art of Doing Stuff’!

  31. Susan says:

    Thank you, Karen, I’ve saved this page to my bathroom flooring notebook, along with the others in this series. Thank you, also, for the link to figure out how much it might cost for the electricity. For our bathroom, where we live, it would be about $50 a year to have the flooring on 20 hours a day through the months we’d need it, so it looks like this is a real possibility for redoing our bath floor!

  32. maude says:

    Thank you for posting this tutorian and sharing your experience with this cement. I’ve always been kind of spooked by the idea of putting down cement myself….it’s just so permanent..lol.
    Maude

  33. AnnW says:

    You rock, as usual. Someone should write a graphic novel about you! But then it would be non-fiction, because it’s true. Ann

  34. Ali says:

    I am so excited to see the vinyl flooring, I really wanted this in our new house.

    Also Karen could a person possible finish self leveling concrete to make a cool industrial modern floor? I asked my hubby about this option a while ago and he said it was prone to cracking easily.

    • Karen says:

      Ali – I’m not sure about cracking but it is difficult to get a nice finish on it. You have bubbles and speckles and tiny raised bumps to deal with if you don’t pour it perfectly. Depends on how industrial looking you want the floor to be. ;)~ karen!

  35. Jasmine says:

    Well thanks very much Karen. I was feeling pretty chuffed with myself making some slipcovers for my outdoor chairs. Now after reading this….I may need to go and overdose on S&V chips. Awesome job-very impressed!

  36. Marti says:

    That self-leveling cement… you think I can make some planters, using a 5 gallon bucket and some old margarine tubs with that stuff? I love those cement planters… don’t want to pay the money and definitely want to be able to brag that I “made them myself.” Will that stuff work for that project?

    • Cussot says:

      Have you ever heard of hypertufa, Marti? It’s a mixture of cement, peat moss and perlite. The finished product looks like concrete when you use the kind of mold you describe, but the result doesn’t weigh as much.

      • Marti says:

        No, I actually haven’t heard of that, Cussot, so much thanks. Is it waterproof, as well? I’m sure I can do the research, now that you’ve steered me that direction. :)

  37. Rktrix says:

    Wow! Very impressive! This is going to be a kick arse warn floor!

    Another factor is weather and humidity. Self leveling compounds are very wet and as it dries the moisture becomes vapor. If your windows aren’t open or your heavy duty fan going at high speed, and if the weather is very humid, it’s gonna be very unpleasant. Mold. Eww.

  38. Susan says:

    I have actually tackled a few jobs like this one and have felt wonderful after having done so. There is nothing more rewarding than accomplishing something you feared, but also accomplishing something that no one thought you were capable of. The feeling is one of perfect fulfillment. Well, maybe not as good as…well you know what I am talking about. But it is a great feeling, nonetheless.
    Thanks for sharing your joy with us. Susan

  39. Feral Turtle says:

    Good job Karen. I love that product. It can fix anything!!

  40. Patti says:

    You are such a bad-ass mofo! I don’t know many guys who would’ve tackled this project. Can’t wait to see it all done up pretty!

  41. Kamaila says:

    Nice job, I am very impressed. I cant wait to see the finished product.

  42. Annie says:

    Nice job but I must say, as a former commercial carpenter, NEVER go barefoot in any type of cement product. In fact, you should limit your skin’s exposure to it at any chance. If you have a small cut or scratch and it absorbs the cement you can be looking at some serious blood poisoning. I worked with a fellow carpenter many years ago that had to undergo several skin grafting surgeries to repair his hands after mixing grout with his bare hands. Really not a good idea to do this. Some people are also allergic to the portland and exposure can result in extreme dermatitis and infection.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Annie – Thanks! I actually looked up the MSDS for self levelling cement and the worst the MSDS states it can cause is skin irritation. I agree infections and blood poisoning can occur with a small cut or scratch. My sister was in the hospital for a week recently after washing her car with a small scratch on her finger. ~ karen

  43. wow, self-leveling cement. who knew? good for you!

  44. Sera says:

    Karen! Where have I been? This is amazing! I admit, I love reading about your adventures in things I will likely never try to accomplish myself. You’re amazing!
    Also, last week I got a letter from the IRS. As scary as it is, I’m pretty sure I’d be more scared to pour my own cement floor.

  45. Linda says:

    Fabulous tutorial and worth a ton of money! Oh how I wish we would have seen this before we used that self leveling cement. I won’t go into our nightmare but let’s just say it wasn’t as neat and pretty as yours. We were in too big of a rush and a lot of other problems happened one being the cat got out of the house and she isn’t an outside cat! I want a do over, how do you get it up? Oh shoot I just remembered that I forgot to tell my husband that the there is water leakage under the new tile on top of the stupid self leveling cement!

  46. Tommy D says:

    Hi Karen, do you have a video link to the self leveling cement project?

  47. carpemark says:

    This article is fantastic! Bought a house that is 30 years old and the floor had low points and high points. I ended up destroying a sander (and my shoulders) taking down 2 high points but was researching on how to lay self leveling cement as a contractor gave a quote with him doing it or me. Guess which one was cheaper :)
    After examining your article, better by far than even the silly product web pages, I and a friend decided to do it ourselves. It was really easy, hard work but worth it.WARNING! Read the mixing instructions! You will find some manufacturers are more expensive as their bags cover less flooring, or square footage per bag! Or their instructions are based on Quarts of water and weight of the mortar…. right …… not buying the product then. either way all done and looking good!
    Thanks again!

    • Karen says:

      Hi Carpe Mark – I”m glad my post was able to help you. That’s the point of all this. To prove to every that it ain’t that hard. Except math as I’m mentioned numerous times. Math is really, really hard. :) ~ karen

  48. Chris says:

    Thanks very much Karen. A Google search for self-leveling cement brought me here. Great site BTW. After reading your post, I got 25% off an open bag AND when I pressed the guy at Home Depot a bit, he told me I didn’t need the primer. So thanks for saving me a few bucks. I’ll use it to pick up a couple extra sleeves of Pringles and email them to you!

  49. Lynda says:

    Hi Karen,
    Great site. Which I had stumbled on it BEFORE I attempted to pour my self leveling stuff. Because it was my first attempt at this, I decided to do only half a bag at a time. The first half seemed ok to me but as it started to set water rose to the surface – I obviously used too much water. What should I do about this? Will it just take longer to dry? Second half seemed to work better. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Lynda – I seem to remember something similar happening to me. It’s has to do with the mixing, I think. If I remember correctly, I dried the wet spots by putting a cloth or paper towel on top for a second to let the water soak in. Then I let it dry normally. I did another thin layer of cement over top to smooth it out. (you have to do the second coat while the first coat is still a bit wet otherwise it won’t adhere properly). Good luck! ~ karen

  50. Kirk says:

    Wow. Smashing job and so well written too. You’ve given me the confidence to take on this job myself! Thank you. I apologize in advance as I will probably curse you a few times for making it look so easy before the job is done but all will be forgiven in the end. :-)

  51. freezerbear says:

    Hi Karen, There once was a time when I thought Paul Weller was the coolest thing on the planet, now I know it’s you!! I have been planning on doing this for months in an 8m x 6m shed in the back yard. Question to you……..how deep can you apply this stuff and is there an optimum ambient temp for application.
    Regards,
    A Setting Son.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Freezerbear – Each product will very slightly in terms of how deep you can pour them etc. Just read the bag once you buy it. It can often be poured up to 1″. Anything where the outdoor temperature is below 50 (10 celsius ) will slow the curing process significantly. Aim for a nice warm day with low humidity. ~ karen!

  52. Katherine says:

    Where did you rent your industrial drill? I’ve called a few big box stores and they said they don’t rent out.

    • Karen says:

      I got mine from a tool rental supply place near my house. That’s all they do … rent tools! This particular place is called “Stephenson’s Rental Service”, but there may be another business in your area that does the same thing. ~ karen!

  53. Vida says:

    What brand of self leveler did you use and from what contractor store did you buy it?

    • Karen says:

      Hi Vida – I’m afraid I can’t remember the brand. If look at my post you might be able to make it out from the bag. ~ karen!

  54. tonya says:

    great job.. very informative – easy to understand. our living room floor is an old old concrete floor – the deed says our house was built in the 1920′s and I suspect the living room may have once been the porch!! anyways — we are doing away with carpet – have a 13 yr old dog- so lots of messes. he just can’t help it at times.. and this is one of the options we are researching.. your tip about damming off the area was great.. we had not even thought about that… thanks.. you saved us a future headache.. today we patched the cracks with a flexible concrete patch mix.. and we thought the next step would be the primer.. but after reading your post and online research we decided to skip it.. so again thanks.. thanks for the great tips..

  55. Anna says:

    So I am loving the idea of this I want to do it in my basement where there are obvious pits and left over black adhesive but I defiantly need the basement to still slope in the same way it currently is. It should work in my head so long as I am using the squeegee. Right? I just want to get rid of the current way it looks and create a surface that can be flat for future flooring or possibly sealed, painted, epoxied. You opinion? Does the floor need to be warm for it to dry well?

  56. Alicia says:

    I came across this post while I was doing research on line about how to use self-leveling cement. So, I am very happy that I came across your page. Anyway, I am here typing at 4:23 in the morning and I think I’ve been up for about an hour. Okay, the reason is that I am remodeling my bathroom and came across a big problem. I removed some tiles to get to the bottom floor where it was sinking due to water damage. I fixed the damage area but by then I had removed two layers of tiles. But now that the hole is patched up I am left with an uneven floor and yes I did notice other areas that were not even and that is why I need to do the cement trick..So, once again I am glad that I came across this page. I am going to do this tomorrow.

  57. andy polishak says:

    After reading and watcing several videos i was still quite nervous. You saved me alot of stress. Thank you very much. If you ever need realtime electrical advice feel free to drop me a line!

    • Karen says:

      Glad to have helped Andy. And I will keep the electrical advice in mind, LOL. I *often* need electrical advice. :) ~ karen!

  58. Kelly says:

    Thank you so much for the very informative post!!! Wow, that really helps! We are thinking of using self-leveling compound AS flooring in our family room space, hoping for the look of concrete without actually being concrete. It is a mail floor area with plywood subfloor. In your opinion, would it work? Is it sturdy enough to stand up as a floor?

    • Karen says:

      Hi Kelly – It’s a bit trickier if you want this stuff to work as actual flooring. The problem is, you can have problems with discolouration and tiny bubbles in the surface of the concrete. Pouring self levelling concrete is easy … pouring a *perfect* looking self levelling concrete is not. :) ~ karen!

  59. Suzy says:

    Wow! I just stumbled on this post.. it’s giving me ideas. We live in an old house that has 3 cellar sections: the house cellar, the man room under the garage and the tunnel that connects the two. All those floors could use a fresh coat of cement. I never even thought I could try it myself! Very cool!

  60. Neicy says:

    Girl, you kick butt! I have been looking for a great tutorial which I found in yours. My floor has minimal damage but I want to pour the whole floor. You have built my confidence and given me the info I needed. You rock, Thanks!!!!

  61. elisa says:

    Hi , i too feel inspired and brave enough now to level a floor in my daycare after reading your tips. Thank you for the tips and inspiration Karen. One question do you have to use the wired lath before you pour the mix if you are leveling a wood sub-floor?

    • Karen says:

      Hi Elisa – No ma’am. The only thing you have to be sure of is there aren’t any cracks in the wood floor where the concrete can seep down into. ~ karen

  62. Paul says:

    Please do another project. I’ll send chips.

    • Karen says:

      I’m always doing a project, but I think that’s it for the cement projects. Not even chips could change that. Unless … I mean … well to be honest with you, you weren’t really very specific about what kind of chips or how many. So … ~ karen!

  63. Betty Messbarger says:

    I’m too old to read the sides on the sack of floor levelor. I wanted to find out how much water to add. I get from your site that it needs to be thin. You made it sound possible that I won’t ruin my floor. I’ve enjoyed reading all the comments. Thank you.

  64. Colleen says:

    Love the humor. Definitely a must when doing insane projects that we some how enjoy after completion and seemed like a good idea before we started. I am currently work on my bathroom remodel. I took the stinking (and I do mean stinking carpet) out and put in ceramic tile flooring. Then I decided to take a wack at the walk in tile shower. There was pieces of tile missing and grout cracked. After examine a few areas and removing a few tiles realized there was tons of mold behind on wall. Crap I have to gut the whole thing. So away I started gutting thing out. Got it down to studs and decided I REALLY want a whirlpool tub instead of tub. New problem we have to move the drain. Ok so hubby talks to plumber who tells him if he breaks down into the cement about 4 inches he can come and redo the drain. Well it turns out to be more like 2 feet. But after renting a jack hammer we were able to get it done. Plumber came in and moved drain. Now have huge hole to fill in plus have to level whole area to surrounding cement lip. I finally got it cemented in this week. Yay I am that much closer to my tub. However before plumber comes out to help install tub I thought I should use some self leveling cement to well make it more even. (Not that it is bad but the annal retentive part of me wants it to look nice so I don’t get comments like your wife did this oh I can tell (in that male tone lol) . So to prove that I really can do it I was researching self leveling cement and was rewarded with some humor and advice at your site. Ps it seems after tub is in and I get surround up I am going to move to drywall. Had a leak in the roof from rain and it was dripping down over my sink. I cleared out the waterlogged and mold drywall. My husband found someone who would repair it but he wants 600 dollars which seems a bit pricy to me unless he is doing the WHOLE kitchen ceiling. I am pretty sure I could do that small area for under 100. Told him get another quote or I am doing it. Lol

  65. Bill says:

    after i put down regular leveler how long do i have to wait to install ceramic tile

    • Karen says:

      Hi Bill – I laid VCT tile, so it’s a bit different. For that I had to wait a few days for the cement to cure, and then another few days before I could put heavy appliances back on it. ~ karen

  66. Joan says:

    Karen! You must be my long-list sister. My husband and I are howling reading this post. He has to have salt-and-vinegar chips, too! Out of necessity, we did our concrete floor work ourselves. The contractors don’t want to bother with small residential jobs. So first, remove the old 9×9 asphalt tiles. No, don’t worry about asbestos. The EPA doesn’t worry about it for these tiles because it is encapsulated. Our county allows them to be thrown into the regular curbside trash. But do worry about the asbestos in the “cutback” – the old adhesive. We got seriously lucky here. We had it tested and there was no asbestos. So then removal of the adhesive. Well, lots of research led us to a great product called Diamabrush mastic removal tool and supposedly we could rent it at Home Depot. Nope. They stopped renting them. But we bought one online for $290 (and later sold it on ebay for $150). You put this thing into a (rented) Clarke Sander floor maintainer and with lots of water and mess, together with husband’s muscle (it is not an easy machine to control), the mastic comes up and you have bare concrete. You need a small angle grinder and the 4.5 inch diamabrush mastic removal tool to get the corners and edges clean. This took two fairly long days. Then you test for moisture content. Ours was too high for the product we are putting down so the next step was to shot blast the floor to ICI Profile 3 (again, lots of research). We were able to rent a small walk-behind shot blaster. It took a day. No dust, because the shot blaster has a super strong vaccuum attached to it. Then a two-stage expoxy. We used MC Plus. Pretty easy to mix, took a bit of effort to spread it properly and I’m sure pros could have done it faster. It had quite a smell but I read the MSDS and no problem if you are just using it once. I wouldn’t want to breathe it on a regular basis. We kept the windows cracked and by day two it was gone.

    All along, people told us we couldn’t do this ourselves. WRONG. And we saved a bundle. The one guy who did give us an estimate wanted $3500 for just the mastic removal and the concrete profiling. We spent just under $3,000 for the whole shebang, including all the tool rental, the expoxy ($1300), and special tools and gear. So I think we saved about $2,000.

    And last but definitely not least, if I could have done it barefoot, I would have!

    Our flooring contractor will be here any minute to start installing the new flooring. They will do the self-leveling compound. Yes, we could have done it ourselves, but we are EXHAUSTED.

    • Karen says:

      LOL. Don’t worry Joan, I wasn’t going to chastise you for not doing the self-levelling concrete yourself. I know all about getting to the point you just want to a) buy something instead of make it or b) hire someone to do it. Good job. I’m not sure even I would have tackled what you did. ~ karen!

  67. stevie says:

    Love the instructions – I only have repairs to a screed to do before tiling and this makes me feel better about it. But how could you cover up those lovely red tiles? I just had my 100- year old tiles taken up an relaid on a new concrete floor – I’ve been waiting for years to get a house with a kitchen with an old tiled floor. Oh and you really shouldn’t let concrete products come into contact with skin like that – little splashes that can be wiped off are ok but walking in it!?! Have you any skin left on your feet?!?

    • Karen says:

      Yup. Feet are fine. ~ karen

      • Bobboau says:

        You might want to make a small addendum where you talk about walking through the cement barefoot. Obviously you cleaned up well and quickly, but people who have larger jobs might have problems if they walk around in wet cement for a few hours. google “cement burn”. I had this happen to me when I splashed some cement on a foot at the beginning of a project and didn’t think about it until I was done. The next day I realized that some of the cement had burned it’s way INTO my skin and I had to scrub the already rather sore area with lemon juice (cement is very alkaline, acids like vinegar or lemon juice neutralize and dissolve it). It’s not a pleasant experience. Feet have lots of places where extremely runny cement can hide and burn it’s way into over a few hours. just make sure to mention that you need to make sure you clean up very thoroughly as soon as possible because cement will eat through you if you leave it too long. Cleaning this muddy mess off you might seem obvious but someone who doesn’t know might put it off because they are exhausted or they might miss a spot and find two days later an inch deep hole somewhere on their body that they normally don’t look at.

        Chemical burns suck.

  68. Josée says:

    Wow – are you ever fun and impressive. You’ve effectively shown that when a woman does a ‘man’ish job’, you get fantastic details. xo I especially like how you cover parts that could lead to worry (dips, uneven patches). Merci!!

    • Karen says:

      You’re welcome Josée! It really was one of the more satisfying jobs I’ve done lately along with being one of the scariest. I have to say I LOVE the heated floors I installed! (which is why I had to do the self levelling cement. ~ karen!

  69. Elizabeth Fletcher says:

    Age 62, F, have done lots of construction work. Leveling floor. Pay attention to everything Karen says but just fasten plastic bags over your shoes instead of barefooting it, and wear gloves. Sent white-collar helper-husband to borrow corded 1/2″ drill from neighbor. Brought back battery-powered with 4 batteries. Lost the argument. Mixed 1/2 bucket when batt 1 died. Switched to Batt 2, 3 & 4 and moved on to bucket 2 when smoke came out of drill [1st Law of electronics: NEVER let the smoke out! Once the smoke leaks out, you need a new one]. Must mix!!! Must be continuous pour! Switched to 3/8″ corded drill and second bucket mixed before smoke came out of that drill. That part of floor completed. 56-mile round trip to buy 1/2′, 6 amp corded drill (50′ 16 gage extension cord in use which is fine for 6 amp tool). Smoke began seriously pouring out of new drill before 1st bucket for 2nd pour complete. Accepted the fire or fusing risk, which is VERY high, and completed mixing the bucket as the smoke leak increased. Leveler requires slow rotation rate as compared to drilling a hole. Drill instructions caution that running the drill slow for long periods will overheat it and it needs to be run with no load until it cools. 1. How do you know it is overheating BEFORE the smoke indicates the wire insulation is burning? 2. How much smoke is ok? 3. How do you know it is sufficiently cooled? So, did not work; new drill pouring enough smoke within 4 min of first use to convince me it was NOT, as my hubby proclaimed, just the grease burning out of a new item that is hot for the first time [burning grease smells like burnt grease; burning wire insulation smells like burnt insulation and they don't smell the same]. Poured this bucket of leveler thin so I could easily add another layer AFTER I rent an industrial drill and buy my neighbor a new drill [leveler does not level well when the depth is very thin -- gave myself about 1/2 inch]. Will need to use primer between layers because can’t get to it before it dries and the the manufacturer says to use primer for this. The construction guys call primer moose milk so haven’t a clue what primer is. The majority of construction guys make money from their labor. Some, the good ones who are always too busy to work for YOU, also use their brains and do what the manufacturer says you should do with their product so as to increase the odds that a tempermental product like self-leveling cement will actually work. As for other leveling projects, bear in mind how much weight this product adds to a floor. On old concrete floor supported by dirt/gravel, you are OK. A thick pour on a wood floor is iffy. Can the floor take it? Can the structure holding up the pour take it? Bag + water weight; not much water evaporates out. A thin pour on wood is iffy because wood floors often flex under your feet as you walk. Good luck with your project. Me, I’m chilling today. A 2 hour job has taken 2 days and needs another day…..

  70. Gary says:

    You know Karen I have looked all over the net, looked at a dozen Youtube videos produced by so called professionals….. and then stumbled upon your instructions. Loved the humour, loved the no pretense of knowing it all. You answered questions I had been searching all over for and here its a woman doing it all. Bravo!! One question- is that linoleum or tile you poured over. If it is lino then what do you think about a small amount of residue from glue I have on my concrete floors. I don’t want to start scraping as I thinks there is asbestos in the tiles. Should the residue be a concern.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Gary. Thanks! Well, we’ve already established I do not know it all, but … I wouldn’t think the residue should be any concern. However, if you’re pouring over concrete I think it would be worth your while to seal the floor. It isn’t necessary with a floor that doesn’t absorb anything (i.e. the self levelling cement) but with concrete you could have issues if you don’t seal it before pouring new cement. But the residue? Not a problem. ~ karen!

  71. Scott says:

    I wanted to comment here. First, the primer/sealer is required if the surface you are pouring onto is porous, such as plywood. Without the primer/sealer, the porous material absorbs the water from the self-leveling underlayment (SLU). This causes the SLU to setup too quickly, not allowing enough “working” time. We know this by trial-by-fire. We poured a 3′ x 3′ area for a fiberglass shower pan. The SLU within 2 – 3 minutes became thick. We ended up chiseling it out which since it sat a week, took 8 hours to do! Round 2 we used primer/sealer, a cordless 18 volt drill on low-speed to mix the SLU. We used water that sat outside all night in 34 degrees. We ended up with lots of air bubbles in the mix. Not sure why? Maybe too high of drill RPM? Anyway, we poured it and used a trowel to help it along. It looked perfect. After it dried, We took a level and although the surface was fairly flat, it was not level. It was over 1/8″ off from level in just the 3 foot span and high in the center. So another 4 – 5 hours to chip it out. We are ready to attempt round 3. We found the slower setting product this time. Not sure what the trick is to get it perfectly level? At least we should have extended working time.

  72. joe says:

    Always wanted to use a self-leveler but now, thankfully, will not have to. I’ve had the experience vicariously! Thanks so much for sharing!

  73. Rosr says:

    Wow….I’m seriously impressed, your floor looks great!! What kind of subfloor did you lay the concrete over? I’ve been lusting after those gorgeous acid stained concrete floors and am wondering if I could just lay this self leveling stuff over my wood subfloors? Any thoughts?

    • Karen says:

      Hi Rosr – Well, I wouldn’t say I’m a cement floor expert at this point, lol. But what I can tell you is it’s difficult to get a perfectly smooth surface yourself with self levelling concrete. There are bound to be little bubbles that form at the top and that sort of thing. I ripped up a few layers of ceramic tile and vinyl until I was down to a smooth smooth sheet flooring. I poured the concrete over that. Because it was non porous I didn’t have to worry about using the sealer. If you’re going over wood you should probably use the sealer and make sure you patch up any holes that the concrete might seep through. ~ karen!

  74. Glenda K says:

    Thanks for all the good info and pictures! I’m still wanting to understand the workability of the product. It seems that you used the squeegee to move the cement so that it was approximately even. Did you then have to smooth it with a trowel? Smooth with the squeegee? or does it self-level and smooth itself?

    • Karen says:

      Hi Glenda K – The squeegee is really just to push the cement where you want it to go. You just use it to move the cement around, not to actually level or smooth it. Once it’s pushed into the corners and such, you just leave it. So yes, it levels and smooths itself. ~ karen!

  75. Rose* says:

    I read an article somewhere that if you stir the cement at a lower speed then bubbles are much less likely to form? Any thoughts?? How smooth was your floor after it dried? 90-95% smooth or what would you guess??

    • Karen says:

      The low speed thing makes sense but I’m not entirely sure the professional drill had a speed setting. I think the only option was “on”. I can’t remember and couldn’t guess how many bubbles I had, but maybe 80% smooth? Total guess. ~ karen!

  76. Dionne says:

    Hi Karen,

    Thanks for all the info. Do you think this can be done over a sturdy ceramic floor? I want to use it as flooring. I’ll accept the bubbles etc. Anything will be better than the current dated ceramic.

  77. vine videos says:

    clearly like your web page nevertheless, you have to confirm the transliteration with many of your posts. Some are usually filled together with punctuational concerns and i also in finding them really difficult to know the truth on the other hand I am going to definitely come back again.

  78. Liz Madeley says:

    A quick note about going barefoot. Cement is very caustic. If you get any (dust or liquid) in your eyes, wash them out, it can blind you. I’d recommend impervious gloves and footwear, myself. I know a fellow who got 3rd degree chemical burns from cement he didn’t wash off. Stay safe.

  79. Jackie says:

    I have a question about the color. Does it stay that dark? Is there a lighter color available? I would like to just stain and seal it.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Jackie – The self levelling cement lightens up a bit, but a word of caution for using it to stain and seal. It’s very difficult to pour so you have a beautiful, bubble free surface. And although the cement lightens up it will always be mottled looking. I’m sure a professional might be able to a better job on both counts, but it’s something you should know about if you’re thinking of doing it yourself. Good luck! ~ karen

      • Jackie says:

        Thanks Karen! Mottled is the effect I’d prefer anyhow! If it’s too perfect, all the dog hair shows…LOL

  80. Mango says:

    As someone who is just about to pour a self-leveling underlayment, this article is by far the finest one I’ve read on the topic. If we ever meet, I will buy you some chips.

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  83. Taras says:

    Hi there,
    WOW !!!!
    I no longer am afraid.
    You’re step by step directions on how to pour a levelling compound is brilliant.
    I’ve renovated many houses, however have never required the use of such a compound therefore I was scared…….I was very scared.
    Following your step by steps did the trick for me.
    Cheers
    P.S
    You should write more How to…..for the very scared.

    • Karen says:

      Glad it worked for you Taras! And this whole website is pretty much dedicated to How to for the very scared. :) ~ karen!

  84. Ben says:

    You can also use soccer cleats if you don’t want to leave footprints in the cement

  85. Ben says:

    Also if you’re trying to level out a floor that is out by a significant amount, a chalk line will work for small areas like a bathroom. If the area is significantly larger, a laser level and these http://www.topleveltools.com/products/featured/featured-level-pegs.html will help. We use a rotary laser level and go around the floor using a measuring tape to establish where the highest point of the room is. Then you form a grid with the level pegs and set your heights accordingly. Makes it easier to know where to push the material and ensure you are leveling the floor properly as the material is not 100 percent self leveling.

  86. don says:

    This article is full of bad information, How NOT to pour SLU

  87. Desiree says:

    Karen, I’m renovating my bathroom and the floor was so unlevel the toilet wouldn’t sit straight– this self leveling article was so helpful — I was so intimidated but I read this, and went right into it. I’m waiting for it to dry as I type this!

    Thanks so much!

  88. don says:

    Your house may not have fallen into an abyss, but chances are good the underlayment will fail over time. Primer is completely necessary along with a properly profiled clean sound substrate. Spending a little extra to do it right the first time will end up saving you money in the future.

    …. and please do not walk around barefoot in this stuff, you obviously have no idea the amount of corrosive chemicals in this cement that may permanently damage your skin and cause all sort of other problems with your body. If you ever meet a concrete finisher, look at there legs, alot of them are missing hair and have chemical burns throughout the body.

  89. Colleen says:

    Thanks for the helpful tutorial. I’m feeling empowered to tackle the basement floor in our flip house.

  90. Robert says:

    Karen, You helped me make up my mind about pouring self leveling cement, You also made me realize that I need to trade my wife in on you or one like you.
    Regards
    Robert

  91. Sandy says:

    After ‘leveling’ my floor and then installing a floating wood floor, I notice there is a bit of a dip or give in the flooring as I enter the room, meaning I did not get this 100% level. The flooring is simple enough to remove, but the question is can I simply add more SLU and taper to minimze the slope, or do I have to chisel out the high side?

  92. anna says:

    I am remodeling my bathroom and after pulling up old carpet and it’s residue I’m left with a lot of uneven places….plus the general slant of a 100 year old house. I will use the self-leveling cement as in your pictures. I purchased the groutable vinyl self-stick tiles because I didn’t want to mess with ceramic and they were also thinner. The guy at lowes said I had to install them over a wood sub-floor and sold me a smooth luan-type material. Do you know if these vinyl self-stick tiles would stick to the self-leveling compound? I did buy the primer to put on before the self-stick tiles. I haven’t bought the self-leveler since I don’t know what is available yet and I definitely don’t want the quick-drying kind. Thanks

  93. I love the fact that you have made it clear in your post that it is expensive and takes time to do it right. I do a lot of jobs for people but had never done an indoor leveling job. My partner told a customer we could do it and bid the job way too low, so I ended up losing money on the job. We were hired to do multiple jobs and he
    told them we could complete them all in 5 days. When I hired a helper to work with me on the cement work
    he said I had to pay the helper out of my share. No big deal right .. The floor was 23×13 and when I checked
    with a level the difference between the highest point and lowest was 3 inches. The original use for the floor was
    as a garage and it was cracked and had sunk in… The customer was unhappy that I took so much time to do it
    and fired me… I will never let my partner put me in that position again…

  94. Raymond from Germany says:

    Hi Karen,

    What is to be said – has already been said by many of your fans.

    I admire your Courage to do such work, (youl never find a European gird doing this) and the instructions and tips are first class. Thanks for the enjoyable reading, Raymond

  95. Dallas says:

    Can you use this self leveling concrete as the actual flooring? I’m trying to fix the pocketed floor in a retail space that had multiple floorings (tile, hardwoods, linoleum) down as display. It has been removed but the concrete is uneven.

    We are a poor nonprofit and I have to keep our expenses down on this new volunteer storage and work space. My goal is to make the floor smooth enough for volunteers not to trip but without having to spend any extra to make the floor pretty.

    But, I do like pretty so – if we could use it as flooring, any chance we could stamp or paint it? Volunteers deserve a pretty place to work.

    Thanks for any advice.
    db

  96. Moe says:

    Your too kool…. I’m gonna show this to my real tough friend and tell him, yes, we can do this…………Thanks for the vid…later and good luck kool karen…….

  97. Kate says:

    Like so many others here, I found your site and love it. I do have a question I saw above and sorry if I missed your answer. I saw (too late) that you need to put the second layer on while the first is still wet. I didn’t do that. I am leveling a floor for glue down engineered hardwood. Am I in big trouble??

    • Karen says:

      Hi Kate. Well .. I’m not sure how much trouble you’re in, lol. The reason for applying when wet is because it melds the two layers together. Now what you have is a top layer and a bottom layer. It’s possible it won’t adhere to the first surface, could crack or it could be just fine. For your purposes (of putting it under laminate) I think you should be fine. But that’s pretty much just a guess. ~ karen!

      • Kate says:

        Wow! Great info AND a prompt response. I am now hooked on your site! btw, it looks like our last pour leveled it enough that we only need to add a little to the sides. thanks again!!

  98. James says:

    That was awesome! I have to do this myself for 1000 sqft!

  99. Red says:

    While Don’s comments are a bit strident I concur on the need for primer/sealer on the underlayment.

    It’s possible you get lucky and don’t need it but you won’t know that until it’s too late. Then the $$$ you saved will be lost several times over if you have to go back and re-do the job. Also remember to consider disclosure when you sell. If you put it in you can’t claim you weren’t aware.

    Also be careful going off the advice of folks at “the store.” I’ve been led astray many times by advice from well intentioned folks in hardware / paint stores.

    The internet is a great tool for acquiring the basic facts, and then building from there. It’s not always 100% accurate but it will give you a general consensus from which to build upon.

    And I hate to say it but I’ve also heard it’s best to keep bare skin out of cement. It’s possible in recent years some of the worst ingredients have been lessened or removed. I don’t want to make a bigger deal of it. You do it a couple times in your life I’m sure you’ll be fine. It’s different for people who do it for a living and have continuous exposure.

    But overall great post, you have a wonderful, funny and off hand writing style. Keep it up, it’s something you have a talent for.

    And if you make an occasional mistake that’s OK. The pro’s do too, and as I like to say – you gotta break a few eggs to make an omelette.

    • Karen says:

      Hi Red -Thanks for the comment. The truth is, because my floor underneath was linoleum I absolutely did not need the primer. The primer is to seal a surface that is porous that the self leveller might seep into or get absorbed by. Like a former concrete floor. And you’re right i wouldn’t take the advice all the time of the people in a regular hardware or big box store but I am more inclined to take the advice of a store used by professionals (which this was). And yes, I was fine after walking in cement for a day and a half, lol. I’ve worked with hydrated lime. Now THAT’s something I’m careful with. ;) ~ karen!

  100. KR says:

    You are HOT Karen

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