First off, congratulations on realizing that you can grow your own loofah sponge. Most people think they grow in the ocean alongside other sponges, like Mr. SquarePants. Growing loofah is easy in warm climates, but with this guide I'll show you that you can grow your own luffa sponge almost anywhere.
As a matter of fact, no they do not grow in the ocean. Or the sea. Or any other body of water.
The fact that loofah aka luffa is actually a vegetable is always the biggest shock to people when you tell them they can grow their own luffa sponges; the fact that they grow on land, not in the water.
Table of Contents
What IS a Loofah Plant
A loofah plant is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family like squash or cucumber. They have long growing vines that have fruit growing off of them. The plant produces edible fruit which become gourds when left on the vine to mature.
Those gourds dry as they get older, losing all their moisture. When cracked open all that is left inside are the fibres you recognize as a luffa sponge.
There are 2 species of this sponge producing plant.
- Luffa aegyptiaca (this is a smooth luffa, also known as Cylindra, Dishrag Gourd, Sponge Gourd, or Egyptian Cucumber)
- Luffa acutangula (this is a ridged luffa also known as Ridged Gourd, Angled Loofah or Chinese Okra)
They're all the same thing (edible vegetables that grow into fibrous sponges) with different names or a sightly different shape.
- Loofah plants are part of the gourd family and grow on vines that can get to be 30' long or more. Trust me on this.
- The part you're used to seeing is actually the inside fibres of the gourd, which lay beneath the green skin. That's the loofah sponge.
- Immature luffas look like a cucumber or zucchini and are edible when they're very young (4-8" long). They're traditionally eaten with eggs in Asian countries, like in this Serious Eats luffa recipe.
- They are annual vines and need to be replanted every year.
- Luffas are shitheads.
For the past decade I've been growing loofah in my Zone 6 climate. Each year more successfully than the previous year as I figure things out. They need a longggg growing season of 150-200 days. They are also easily frightened. Like you can frighten a Loofah to death.
More on that in a few moments.
To figure out how to successfully grow a loofah sponge, you have to know how to very, very unsuccessfully grow a loofah sponge.
Luckily for you, I have all kinds of experience in that particular area. In fact, I spent the better part of a decade being exceptionally unsuccessful at growing luffa.
Not to brag.
I now have it down to a science and you will now learn from my years of mistakes in this step-by-step guide.
Growing loofah
In colder zones you need to start your plant from seed, grow it indoors until temperatures warm up and then plant it outside on a sturdy structure where the vines can do their thing and the heavy luffa fruit will have support.
Potential Problems
There are 3 main areas where things can go horribly wrong with growing the plant.
- Your seeds won't germinate. Because they're little asshead seeds that hate you.
- Your little luffa seedling goes into shock when you transplant it outside and it dies of fright or at least goes into a month long coma.
- Your vine grows but you never get to the point of seeing fruit before the frost kills it.
I'm going to show you how to overcome all of those issues so you can grow your own organic luffa sponge this summer.
Handy for showers, scrubbing pots and whacking people on the head with.
Planting luffa seeds
STEP 1 - If you're in a cooler zone, start your Luffa seeds early, indoors, 6 - 8 weeks before the last frost date.
STEP 2 - Use new Luffa seeds and soak them in water for 24 hours prior to planting. Seeds that have been hanging around for years won't germinate well.
STEP 3 - Sow seeds in a 4" pot of moistened soil. Plant ½" deep. Cover with plastic wrap, or a humidity dome just until the seeds sprout. Once sprouted you can remove the dome.
STEP 4 - Germinating luffa seeds on a seed heat pad will increase your success. Sow seeds and then place their pots or tray on the warmth heat pad to germinate.
STEP 5 - For an even BETTER chance of reducing transplant shock, grow in soil blocks instead of pots.
FINAL THOUGHT - Using this method your seeds should germinate within 3-10 days from planting.
TIP - I'm a soil block convert and you can read all about how they work and how to make them in my post on making soil blocks with a soil blocker.
Seed Heat mats
I can't overstate how much a seed heating mat improves germination and growth of your loofah seeds.
It's also working GREAT for my Sweet Potato slips using my updated sweet potato growing method, tomatoes and just about any other heat loving crop.
Planting out in the garden
- When the weather is right ( air is consistently around 70 F or 21 C) start hardening off your seedlings. This is more important than with most other plants because Luffa are so prone to transplant shock.
- After a week or so of hardening off, plant your seedlings in an area that gets FULL sun. As much sun as possible. Anything less and you won't get any Luffas.
TIP - If you're unsure of what it is or how to do it, read these steps on how to harden off plants.
- Plant your loofah seedlings at the base of a strong structure that its vines can climb on and cling to. Chain link fence or something similar is perfect.
- If after planting out, a cold snap threatens, cover the seedlings with a vented cloche. Or you can cut the bottom off of a plastic pop bottle and place it over the plant (with the cap removed to allow venting). A few days of cold weather will STOP a luffa from growing and it could take a month before they get over the shock.
- Luffa will produce fruit 3 months after direct seeding, and 4 months after starting seeds inside. They are ready to harvest 6-7 months after seeding.
Alright then, you've started them from seed and planted them out. Now what do you do for the rest of the summer?
Growing Luffa in Containers
- You'll need a 25 - 30 gallon pot or grow bag. If you don't speak "gallons", just look for pots or grow bags that are about 20 - 24" across the top. This will ensure you don't have to water every 30 seconds, and it will hold enough soil to provide enough nutrients to the VERY large luffa.
- Grow one plant per bag. No more than that.
These are GREAT 30 gallon felt-like grow bags.
Growing on & summer care
Luffa take 6 - 7 months before they're mature and ready to harvest. That's how long you have to pay attention and take care of them.
Luckily it's mainly just a matter of watering, fertilizoing and keeping an eye out for pests.
Watering
Keep the soil consistently moist. Don't let it dry out or get oversaturated. Luffa doesn't like surprises. It likes everything to stay the same.
Like I've mentioned before, luffa are shitheads that are plotting against you. If you let them dry out or overwater them, they will rebel against you.
Fertilizing
Before planting, apply 3" of compost over your bed or container.
You can also spring dress your beds with this organic 4-4-4 all purpose fertilizer from Gaia Green. (it's what I use)
Pollination
Like winter squash, luffa have male and female flowers. You can hand pollinate the female flowers using this hand pollination technique to increase your luffa harvest. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of pollinators in your garden.
Pinching
2 months before your first frost date (by the middle of August for me in zone 6) you need to pinch away all the flowers and any small luffa on the vine. Continue to do this for the rest of the season.
This is important because it will direct all the plant's remaining energy to growing the luffas that are on the vine now instead wasting it ones that have no chance of becoming harvest size. THIS IS CRUCIAL.
Pests & Diseases
Cucumber Beetle (which cause cucumber wilt)
Aphids
Squash Bug ← link to treatment
Vine Borers ← link to treatment
Powdery Mildew ← link to treatment
Blight
I have never lost a luffa plant to pests or disease, but these are the ones to watch out for. Where indicated I have a link to successful treatments I use.
Harvesting
- By October you should have big Luffas. If you live in or above zone 7 your luffas will probably dry on the vine and be brown and light as a feather by October. For zone 6 and below they'll probably still be green. That's O.K.
- Pick your Luffa gourds BEFORE they're hit by frost even if they're still green.
Dry gourds vs Green gourds
Over and over you'll hear that you have to wait until the gourd is dry to pick it. And yes, that's the best time to pick it but it's not the only time.
If you live in zone 6 or below chances are you'll be harvesting them green. The lighter they feel in your hand, the greater chance they'll have fibres inside.
Some green luffas you pick will not have matured enough and when you peel them they'll be fleshy and gooey inside.
But OTHERS will indeed have developed enough to have the coveted fibres.
- 1st luffa is immature with spongey flesh inside.
- 2nd luffa is lighter in colour and weight which helps you know it may have developed fibres.
- 3rd luffa is well on its way to drying out and will definitely have a luffa sponge inside.
- 4th luffa is the ideal time to pick. When it's completely dry and you can hear seeds rattling inside.
Like I said, it isn't easy and definitely not for the half assed gardener in colder climates, but if you really want to grow loofahs you can.
Peeling, Processing & Preparing
How to process immature (green) luffa
- Lay the gourd on a hard surface like a table. Press down hard on it with the palms of your hands to crack the skin. Do this many times until much of the skin is cracked.
- Press your thumb into the skin by a crack pushing down until you can worm your thumb under the skin. This will separate the skin from the sponge fibres. Kind of like how you would peel an orange that doesn't want to be peeled.
- Rinse the sponge under water once it's released. Squish any wet gooey parts out while you rinse. You want the sponge to be perfectly clean.
- While you rinse and squish, many of the seeds will come out. When it feels and looks clean, let it sit on the counter overnight to dry.
- Once dried you can shake and bat your luffa around to get the remaining seeds out. They'll come out much more easily once it's dried.
- If you'd like a brighter looking sponge you can soak it in a solution of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water. After bleaching, rinse it with clean water and let it dry again.
note: I have quite literally never measured my bleach solution. I just fill the sink with water and glug some bleach into it. But rules are rules and the rule is 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Peel green loofah as soon as you pick them. Don't wait for them to dry out - they could rot and discolour.
Saving Loofah Seeds
Each luffa will be FULL of seeds that you can use to grow more luffa next year.
- ONLY the black seeds are viable. White or light coloured seeds will not germinate or grow.
- Once you've set your black seeds aside, feel them. Some will be fat and some will be flat. Fat seeds have been properly pollinated. Flat seeds have not been pollinated.
- Only the FAT luffa seeds will germinate, so those are the ones you need to save for planting.
What is a Luffa Sponge Used For?
- In the shower. Either soap up yourself and slough away dirt and dead skin with the Luffa or cut a bar of soap so it fits into one of the luffa channels and it will lather as you scrub with it!
- Pot scrubber. I keep a bowl of these cut into 3 or 4" lengths and use them to scrub pots. When they get dirty they go into the dishwasher. If there's no hope of them getting clean because there are so many bits stuck in them, they go into the compost bin.
- Removing gummy glue from removing stickers off of plastic or glass. Just dab the sticker with oil then scrub with a luffa. Although truly, the best way to remove any sticker is with a hairdryer.
- Anything that needs cleaning by scrubbing.
- Vegetables! Luffas are the BEST vegetable scrubbers.
How to Clean Them
- With bleach in the sink.
- In the washing machine.
- In the dishwasher.
- To maintain the luffa make sure after using them you allow them to stand on end so they can dry properly. Otherwise they'll get musty and gross.
Luffa sponges NEED to be cleaned, especially if you're using them in the shower. Once a week throw your luffa into the wash or soak it in a bleach solution. 1 part bleach-10 parts water. Let it soak for a few minutes and then rinse it.
Where to buy seeds
I got my original seeds from William Dam Seeds in Canada. In the US Baker Creek would be a good place to get them.
Start to finish you're looking at around 6 months or 180 days. The length of time it takes depends on the variety of loofah, but generally it's about 6 months from the day you start your seed to the day you're picking the loofah.
In warm climates you can expect to get 6 sponges from 1 luffa plant. But in colder zones you may only get 3 or 4.
In climates with long growing seasons and in full sun. But they can be grown in cool climates if you use this guide.
If you're a soap maker, you can slice a sponge and put it in the mould before pouring your soap solution. Once it cures you'll have the absolute BEST shower buddy. If you don't count Idris Elba, who of course would be an even better shower buddy.
Yup. But not only are the luffa fruit edible, but the leaves are as well. Just make sure you pick them as a leafy green when they're young. As they get bigger and older they get tough.
If after all of this you've decided you'd rather grow something a little more reasonable, but still fun, I'd recommend growing Buzz Buttons™️ aka toothache plant.
So there. Now I've told you how to do it. Yes I know this post was long, but consider yourself lucky it wasn't a decade.
→Follow me on Instagram where I often make a fool of myself←
Lucy
Hi Karen, I live in Michigan and just harvested all of my luffa's because of the frost last night. They're all still green like yours so I was really worried until I read your (hilarious) post. Just wondering about drying them out-- you said you left yours on the porch to dry out for about a month, do you have an enclosed porch or did you take them in at night or how did you do that?
Thanks!
MZ
Do you still read and answer from this site? We had a cold front, and it looks like the vine is dead. Should I harvest this, or let it stay on the vine longer? The cold is over for now. (Texas)
Karen
Hi MZ. Harvest it! Getting touched by frost can make the luffa go brown and rotten inside. Good luck! :) ~ karen
MZ
Thank you!!
Chris
Growing these for the first time this year. I counted at least 9 that are decent-size but all still green.
I’m all about leaving them on the vine as long as possible, but it’s threatening possible frost tomorrow night.
I have been looking unsuccessfully for further detail on the “cut it before frost” advice—are we talking a 32F frost or a 28F “hard frost”? I know conurbs can usually take 1-2 “light” frosts, but not a hard frost.
Which kind of frost are we talking with the Luffas?
Karen
With Luffa I always pick before even a light frost. Not based on any information (because as you say information is SCANT!) but because I want to be safe. Having a green luffa is O.K., what you're hoping for is that they're light. So when you lift them up do they feel like they're heavy for their size or light? Also, when you squeeze the luffa, it goes through stages. In the beginning it feels hard like a cucumber. In the next stage it starts to feel spongey and wet inside. The final stage is the luffa feeling hard again. That's when the skin has toughened the insides have formed fibres and dried out. Hope that helps. ~ karen!
Jaimie
My loofas are not getting thick. They have been skinny and stagnant for about 2 weeks now. Any tips?
Karen
Hi Jaimie! It depends on what gardening zone you're in. If you're anywhere a zone 6 then it just isn't warm enough for them to continue growing. Let me know where you are and i might be able to help a bit more. ~ karen!
Amanda
this could be fun, in June I did the soak of 6 seed, in 2 little pots of 3, got a single sprout in one pot, and nothing seemed to be happening in the other. I kept watering both pots for a few weeks then stopped the second pot. I did seem to be doing well with that one, on thru doing a paper pot for the seedling and even to a real pot while it started to vine. That one unfortunately died on me, ah well. but I had restarted watering the second little pot and got a sprout! YAY!, especially when the first one died not long after. within 2 months the second plant was producing flowers, I've had several blooms, and more to come.
my only confusion is that I have this plant inside on a homemade/cobbled yarn trellis, and that the blooms last 1 day before just falling off. do they do this on their own without possible pollinators, and will I get anything from the vines, as it is still growing like crazy.
I am not really expecting much, as I am keeping it going because I've never been able to keep a plant going so long before. so, here's to crossing fingers! and I do have more seeds left from the package to go again in the spring if I get nothing.
Karen
Hi Amanda! You are successfully growing a luffa inside, lol? Maybe you should be giving me tips. ;) You absolutely need pollinators and a big shiny thing in the sky (sun) to get luffas. You might get a leggy vine but not any luffas. Depending on where you live start the seeds early (like late March) and plant them outside in the glorious world with the sun if you can. :) ~ karen!
Barbara Catfish
Haha! Great luffa guide. I too planted luffa. They germinated and grew wonderfully well...three years later. By that time I had forgotten I had planted ***the little creeps*** and thought they were some type of mutant cucumber vine. Eventually I realised what they were and harvested a great crop. The best thing I learned was harvesting them dried and brown they are hard to peel and you get dirty brown luffas. Harvest when they change from heavy to light, still green, bash them all over on the edge of your stairs, peel and submerge in hot soapy water. Beautiful white luffas.
Melody
We grew them successfully one year - and go the dirty, brown, icky luffas. We soaked them in a 50/50 bleach/water solution and they came out beautiful!
JlAntee Jean
I managed to get 2 on the vine this year but the rainy season is starting here in Oregon. Should I take them and air dry or move them into the garage with a grow light?
Karen
They look nice! Just leave them until the nights are getting frost. The longer they stay on the vine the better. :) ~ karen!
Gail
This is a wonderful post of loofah. I think after the dryness of loofah, it's easy to peal out the upper cover of Loofah. You give great info on this blog. Thanks for sharing it.
Mary Cerovski
I am currently growing luffas in zone 4. Thank goodness for your article, moving to a more all day sun location. I started mine in a grow tent under 24 hour light so they took off and were quite big when we put them outside. It was my 13 year old sons idea to grow them so I hope we get at least 1.
Karen
Good luck Mary! I hope you do well! In zone 6b here we've had a lateeee start to spring/summer so I'm hoping I get even just one myself, lol. ~ karen!
Gill Adams
Thanks! I had just given up on germinating my loofah seeds (South East England - so a more forgiving climate than yours) when I found your post. I'd put them in smallish pots about a month ago and cosseted them in my conservatory, dithering about with more or less water, and more or less of a cosy plastic cover, and thinking, 'oh gill, why do you keep experimenting - why not stick to growing spuds and raspberries.' Anyway, your comments were reassuring - only another 9.5 years to go! THEN I went to the conservatory and LO AND BEHOLD, the little darlings have broken the surface. That's a change in less than one day - we've had an uplift in night time temps here plus I'd squirted water at them this morning and plastic-jacketed. Now all I have to do is get them through nursery school, juniors, secondary school, sixth form college, higher ed - and I'll have some jolly loofahs! I could of course buy some - but where's the fun in that. I'll re-read your tips. And thanks!!!! Gill
gill
Am replying to my own post (ie, adding to it) - can anyone tell me if I could grow them on in a container as my trellis isn't near soil? Would it need a big container? Half dustbin, for example?
Eve
I just found your blog, and it is exactly what I am looking for. Last fall my kids gave me a loofah with the seeds still intact. I dried the seeds out over the winter and planted them about three weeks ago. They are sprouting beautifully, and now I was wondering what to do with them. Your blog answered all my questions. Now I am making newspaper pots to transplant the baby loofah. My biggest problem is that I divided the 50 more or less seeds I had into two pots. I have lots of sprouts, but needless to say, they may well be root bound. Hopefully I will have the pots finished soon and be able to separate my babies. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Ann McCarron
Best blog post I’ve read in ages! I received my luffa seeds today. I’m in zone 9 (Ireland) and would love to grow these in my poly tunnel. Is it too late to start?
valerie
I love this article! Thank you for walking me through growing luffas! I have a few seedlings under grow lights right now, wishing I had seen your article much earlier and used a heat pad! Might try to get one yet. You made me laugh out loud at SHITMOFARKLESPARX!!....I shall be practicing that word so I can add it to my vocabulary in case of emergency!
Karen
That's O.K. As long as they germinated and are growing, you're set! ~ karen
Leslie Nichols
I was lucky enough to get some Loofah seeds at my daughter in laws in Alabama. Hers grew all over the place. I brought them home to Washington, and forgot about them. We moved to Providence, Utah, where it is so hot like in the 100's all summer. We moved in last June, it is now end of April, and I just came across my seeds again. Do you think I have any chance of them growing? They are 2 years old. It snows suddenly like from hot to cold we are near the Mountains, but in Cache Valley. It snowed suddenly just a few days before Thanksgiving. But it was very warm right up to the snow. No frost before that. Is it to late?
Regina Patrick
Okay, not only did I know this note did I ever think about it, but your article is quite funny. It was no doubt informative. Definitely peaked my interest. But it was refreshingly real. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. Thanks for sharing!
Karen
Thanks Regina! ~ karen
Ashley Lowe
Sounds like you should move to Florida! Planted the seeds in March. Every seed sprouted and transplanted fine.
Andrea
When I found out that luffas didnt come from the ocean I was determined to grow my own. Last season, I bought seeds and planted 8 in a seed tray outside. All of them came up and I had no issues when I transplanted them into my garden. I ended up with about 20 or so luffas, some of which molded because they got frosted on in the Fall. This year I am expanding and planning on growing a lot more. My husband and I built a huge bamboo trellis for them to climb. I am excited!
Sam Burke
What if you have green house?! Would they grow better (like they did w the heating pad?!) it gets up to 80 in there in the summer?
Karen
Hi Sam! Do you mean to start your luffa in the greenhouse? That would work only if the greenhouse is 80 in the months the plants need to be started, so in around April or so. ~ karen!
Dodie
Hi. I just found out about these last summer. I'm super stoked to get started this year. Question. I'm wondering if its possible to use a warming plate instead of that seed heater to help germinate t by e seeds? What say you?
Karen
Hi Dodie. I wouldn't, no. Seed pads are built for getting wet and dirty and being left on for long periods (weeks) of time. Warming plates are not. ~ karen!
Kate
Hey! I would like to plant my loofahs in pots. How big should they be?
Thanks!
Karen
Hi Kate. Do you mean to grow outside? If that's the case they need to be as big a pot as you can possibly find. The size you'd normally find a tree in at a nursery. ~ karen!