First off, congratulations on realizing that you can grow your own loofah sponge. Most people think they grow in the ocean alongside other sponges, like Mr. SquarePants. Growing loofah is easy in warm climates, but with this guide I'll show you that you can grow your own luffa sponge almost anywhere.
As a matter of fact, no they do not grow in the ocean. Or the sea. Or any other body of water.
The fact that loofah aka luffa is actually a vegetable is always the biggest shock to people when you tell them they can grow their own luffa sponges; the fact that they grow on land, not in the water.
Table of Contents
What IS a Loofah Plant
A loofah plant is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family like squash or cucumber. They have long growing vines that have fruit growing off of them. The plant produces edible fruit which become gourds when left on the vine to mature.
Those gourds dry as they get older, losing all their moisture. When cracked open all that is left inside are the fibres you recognize as a luffa sponge.
There are 2 species of this sponge producing plant.
- Luffa aegyptiaca (this is a smooth luffa, also known as Cylindra, Dishrag Gourd, Sponge Gourd, or Egyptian Cucumber)
- Luffa acutangula (this is a ridged luffa also known as Ridged Gourd, Angled Loofah or Chinese Okra)
They're all the same thing (edible vegetables that grow into fibrous sponges) with different names or a sightly different shape.
- Loofah plants are part of the gourd family and grow on vines that can get to be 30' long or more. Trust me on this.
- The part you're used to seeing is actually the inside fibres of the gourd, which lay beneath the green skin. That's the loofah sponge.
- Immature luffas look like a cucumber or zucchini and are edible when they're very young (4-8" long). They're traditionally eaten with eggs in Asian countries, like in this Serious Eats luffa recipe.
- They are annual vines and need to be replanted every year.
- Luffas are shitheads.
For the past decade I've been growing loofah in my Zone 6 climate. Each year more successfully than the previous year as I figure things out. They need a longggg growing season of 150-200 days. They are also easily frightened. Like you can frighten a Loofah to death.
More on that in a few moments.
To figure out how to successfully grow a loofah sponge, you have to know how to very, very unsuccessfully grow a loofah sponge.
Luckily for you, I have all kinds of experience in that particular area. In fact, I spent the better part of a decade being exceptionally unsuccessful at growing luffa.
Not to brag.
I now have it down to a science and you will now learn from my years of mistakes in this step-by-step guide.
Growing loofah
In colder zones you need to start your plant from seed, grow it indoors until temperatures warm up and then plant it outside on a sturdy structure where the vines can do their thing and the heavy luffa fruit will have support.
Potential Problems
There are 3 main areas where things can go horribly wrong with growing the plant.
- Your seeds won't germinate. Because they're little asshead seeds that hate you.
- Your little luffa seedling goes into shock when you transplant it outside and it dies of fright or at least goes into a month long coma.
- Your vine grows but you never get to the point of seeing fruit before the frost kills it.
I'm going to show you how to overcome all of those issues so you can grow your own organic luffa sponge this summer.
Handy for showers, scrubbing pots and whacking people on the head with.
Planting luffa seeds
STEP 1 - If you're in a cooler zone, start your Luffa seeds early, indoors, 6 - 8 weeks before the last frost date.
STEP 2 - Use new Luffa seeds and soak them in water for 24 hours prior to planting. Seeds that have been hanging around for years won't germinate well.
STEP 3 - Sow seeds in a 4" pot of moistened soil. Plant ½" deep. Cover with plastic wrap, or a humidity dome just until the seeds sprout. Once sprouted you can remove the dome.
STEP 4 - Germinating luffa seeds on a seed heat pad will increase your success. Sow seeds and then place their pots or tray on the warmth heat pad to germinate.
STEP 5 - For an even BETTER chance of reducing transplant shock, grow in soil blocks instead of pots.
FINAL THOUGHT - Using this method your seeds should germinate within 3-10 days from planting.
TIP - I'm a soil block convert and you can read all about how they work and how to make them in my post on making soil blocks with a soil blocker.
Seed Heat mats
I can't overstate how much a seed heating mat improves germination and growth of your loofah seeds.
It's also working GREAT for my Sweet Potato slips using my updated sweet potato growing method, tomatoes and just about any other heat loving crop.
Planting out in the garden
- When the weather is right ( air is consistently around 70 F or 21 C) start hardening off your seedlings. This is more important than with most other plants because Luffa are so prone to transplant shock.
- After a week or so of hardening off, plant your seedlings in an area that gets FULL sun. As much sun as possible. Anything less and you won't get any Luffas.
TIP - If you're unsure of what it is or how to do it, read these steps on how to harden off plants.
- Plant your loofah seedlings at the base of a strong structure that its vines can climb on and cling to. Chain link fence or something similar is perfect.
- If after planting out, a cold snap threatens, cover the seedlings with a vented cloche. Or you can cut the bottom off of a plastic pop bottle and place it over the plant (with the cap removed to allow venting). A few days of cold weather will STOP a luffa from growing and it could take a month before they get over the shock.
- Luffa will produce fruit 3 months after direct seeding, and 4 months after starting seeds inside. They are ready to harvest 6-7 months after seeding.
Alright then, you've started them from seed and planted them out. Now what do you do for the rest of the summer?
Growing Luffa in Containers
- You'll need a 25 - 30 gallon pot or grow bag. If you don't speak "gallons", just look for pots or grow bags that are about 20 - 24" across the top. This will ensure you don't have to water every 30 seconds, and it will hold enough soil to provide enough nutrients to the VERY large luffa.
- Grow one plant per bag. No more than that.
These are GREAT 30 gallon felt-like grow bags.
Growing on & summer care
Luffa take 6 - 7 months before they're mature and ready to harvest. That's how long you have to pay attention and take care of them.
Luckily it's mainly just a matter of watering, fertilizoing and keeping an eye out for pests.
Watering
Keep the soil consistently moist. Don't let it dry out or get oversaturated. Luffa doesn't like surprises. It likes everything to stay the same.
Like I've mentioned before, luffa are shitheads that are plotting against you. If you let them dry out or overwater them, they will rebel against you.
Fertilizing
Before planting, apply 3" of compost over your bed or container.
You can also spring dress your beds with this organic 4-4-4 all purpose fertilizer from Gaia Green. (it's what I use)
Pollination
Like winter squash, luffa have male and female flowers. You can hand pollinate the female flowers using this hand pollination technique to increase your luffa harvest. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of pollinators in your garden.
Pinching
2 months before your first frost date (by the middle of August for me in zone 6) you need to pinch away all the flowers and any small luffa on the vine. Continue to do this for the rest of the season.
This is important because it will direct all the plant's remaining energy to growing the luffas that are on the vine now instead wasting it ones that have no chance of becoming harvest size. THIS IS CRUCIAL.
Pests & Diseases
Cucumber Beetle (which cause cucumber wilt)
Aphids
Squash Bug ← link to treatment
Vine Borers ← link to treatment
Powdery Mildew ← link to treatment
Blight
I have never lost a luffa plant to pests or disease, but these are the ones to watch out for. Where indicated I have a link to successful treatments I use.
Harvesting
- By October you should have big Luffas. If you live in or above zone 7 your luffas will probably dry on the vine and be brown and light as a feather by October. For zone 6 and below they'll probably still be green. That's O.K.
- Pick your Luffa gourds BEFORE they're hit by frost even if they're still green.
Dry gourds vs Green gourds
Over and over you'll hear that you have to wait until the gourd is dry to pick it. And yes, that's the best time to pick it but it's not the only time.
If you live in zone 6 or below chances are you'll be harvesting them green. The lighter they feel in your hand, the greater chance they'll have fibres inside.
Some green luffas you pick will not have matured enough and when you peel them they'll be fleshy and gooey inside.
But OTHERS will indeed have developed enough to have the coveted fibres.
- 1st luffa is immature with spongey flesh inside.
- 2nd luffa is lighter in colour and weight which helps you know it may have developed fibres.
- 3rd luffa is well on its way to drying out and will definitely have a luffa sponge inside.
- 4th luffa is the ideal time to pick. When it's completely dry and you can hear seeds rattling inside.
Like I said, it isn't easy and definitely not for the half assed gardener in colder climates, but if you really want to grow loofahs you can.
Peeling, Processing & Preparing
How to process immature (green) luffa
- Lay the gourd on a hard surface like a table. Press down hard on it with the palms of your hands to crack the skin. Do this many times until much of the skin is cracked.
- Press your thumb into the skin by a crack pushing down until you can worm your thumb under the skin. This will separate the skin from the sponge fibres. Kind of like how you would peel an orange that doesn't want to be peeled.
- Rinse the sponge under water once it's released. Squish any wet gooey parts out while you rinse. You want the sponge to be perfectly clean.
- While you rinse and squish, many of the seeds will come out. When it feels and looks clean, let it sit on the counter overnight to dry.
- Once dried you can shake and bat your luffa around to get the remaining seeds out. They'll come out much more easily once it's dried.
- If you'd like a brighter looking sponge you can soak it in a solution of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water. After bleaching, rinse it with clean water and let it dry again.
note: I have quite literally never measured my bleach solution. I just fill the sink with water and glug some bleach into it. But rules are rules and the rule is 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Peel green loofah as soon as you pick them. Don't wait for them to dry out - they could rot and discolour.
Saving Loofah Seeds
Each luffa will be FULL of seeds that you can use to grow more luffa next year.
- ONLY the black seeds are viable. White or light coloured seeds will not germinate or grow.
- Once you've set your black seeds aside, feel them. Some will be fat and some will be flat. Fat seeds have been properly pollinated. Flat seeds have not been pollinated.
- Only the FAT luffa seeds will germinate, so those are the ones you need to save for planting.
What is a Luffa Sponge Used For?
- In the shower. Either soap up yourself and slough away dirt and dead skin with the Luffa or cut a bar of soap so it fits into one of the luffa channels and it will lather as you scrub with it!
- Pot scrubber. I keep a bowl of these cut into 3 or 4" lengths and use them to scrub pots. When they get dirty they go into the dishwasher. If there's no hope of them getting clean because there are so many bits stuck in them, they go into the compost bin.
- Removing gummy glue from removing stickers off of plastic or glass. Just dab the sticker with oil then scrub with a luffa. Although truly, the best way to remove any sticker is with a hairdryer.
- Anything that needs cleaning by scrubbing.
- Vegetables! Luffas are the BEST vegetable scrubbers.
How to Clean Them
- With bleach in the sink.
- In the washing machine.
- In the dishwasher.
- To maintain the luffa make sure after using them you allow them to stand on end so they can dry properly. Otherwise they'll get musty and gross.
Luffa sponges NEED to be cleaned, especially if you're using them in the shower. Once a week throw your luffa into the wash or soak it in a bleach solution. 1 part bleach-10 parts water. Let it soak for a few minutes and then rinse it.
Where to buy seeds
I got my original seeds from William Dam Seeds in Canada. In the US Baker Creek would be a good place to get them.
Start to finish you're looking at around 6 months or 180 days. The length of time it takes depends on the variety of loofah, but generally it's about 6 months from the day you start your seed to the day you're picking the loofah.
In warm climates you can expect to get 6 sponges from 1 luffa plant. But in colder zones you may only get 3 or 4.
In climates with long growing seasons and in full sun. But they can be grown in cool climates if you use this guide.
If you're a soap maker, you can slice a sponge and put it in the mould before pouring your soap solution. Once it cures you'll have the absolute BEST shower buddy. If you don't count Idris Elba, who of course would be an even better shower buddy.
Yup. But not only are the luffa fruit edible, but the leaves are as well. Just make sure you pick them as a leafy green when they're young. As they get bigger and older they get tough.
If after all of this you've decided you'd rather grow something a little more reasonable, but still fun, I'd recommend growing Buzz Buttons™️ aka toothache plant.
So there. Now I've told you how to do it. Yes I know this post was long, but consider yourself lucky it wasn't a decade.
→Follow me on Instagram where I often make a fool of myself←
Jessica
If you’re still checking comments can you elaborate more on transplant shock and then not starting to grow? Mine have been in the dirt for almost a month and I feel like they’re almost getting smaller not bigger 😭
Karen
Yes. They're in shock. :/ As long as they're alive you still have a chance. They'll just suddenly get over their shock and start to grow. Keep them watered and wait for the really hot weather. That really helps them. ~ karen!
Kelsey
This was gold. You got me good with the shitheads comment lol. Growing luffas this year in zone 5. We shall see how hard I can screw them up. Thanks for the advice!
Karen
You're welcome and good luck with the shitheads!~ karen!
Amanda Naito
Hey!
I’m planning on growing luffa for the first time this summer in B.C! I just have a few questions! Up higher on the page you have steps 3 and 4..now this might be a silly question and I think I know the answer but...it says to soak the seeds for 24hrs before planting. Is this putting the seeds in a bowl full of water? Or is that too much water? Then it says to start seeds on a mat...then put them in soil blocks once the “true leaves” form. And this is the silly question but I just want to make sure I do it right...I’m not just placing my seeds on the mat by themselves am I? I’m putting them in their biodegradable pots or soil blocks first then putting them on the heating mat to germinate???
Also, you recommend a 25-30 gallon pot, and I’ll be growing my luffa in pots since I’m in a townhouse with a large patio roof. Now is this 30 gallon pot just for one plant??
Thanks so much! Love your page!
Shanda
Just stumbled across this post and it is SO helpful. I’m trying them for the first time this year in zone 6 and started mine inside ages ago. As the magical outdoor planting date approaches, I am super worried about not killing them. Thanks for the insight!
Karen
Just hold off planting them until June 1st and you should be fine. But get them acclimatized to being outside prior to that so their shock isn't too bad. ~ karen!
Sylvia
My luffa/loufa (whatever) plants germinated nicely with the use of a heat mat. They are also under growing lights for 12 hours daily (along with my other plant babies). I noticed that one plant looks a little sickly with white-yellowish blotchy areas on a few leaves, otherwise it's "healthy". The rest of the plants look good, but they are getting a white haze on their leaves - almost looking like powdery mildew (it's not - I know what powdery mildew is). Are these typical conditions?
Also, I didn't plant them in newspaper or any biodegradable container. I know that you mentioned that it's better to do that (they were already growing before I saw your article). Any suggestions on how to transplant them "carefully" when it's time? Maybe if I just slice the container and gently put the plant in the ground that will suffice?
Karen
Hi Sylvia! It's hard to say what it is without seeing it but if you have one that looks weak or diseased I'd get rid of it immediately. If it's just weak it won't be a good plant and if it has disease it can spread to the others. And yes, just be very gentle pulling the plant out and don't touch the roots. Don't tease them out or anything. And don't let them get root bound before planting. ~ karen!
Christopher
Was successful growing large luffas my first year but after peeling they are vary stiff and have a vegetation odor when used. Is anything I can use to soften and deodorize ?
Jess
I just wanted to say thankyou! This is my 3rd attempt at growing Luffa in the UK and thanks to your advice I have some seedlings! I just need to try not to kill them on the next stage. They are a bitch to grow haha
Karen
YES they are! And great, I'm glad it's finally working out for you. :) ~ karen!
Holly
This is a great article! Luffa have been a pain in my ass for the last three years but I've only ever gotten one small luffa. Last year, I never even got flowers. Do you know what that's all about? Starting again this year with about 9 or 10 plants. Also, a cool step I learned is to cut the bottom off a Solo cup and put that around the seedling when you plant it outside. It keeps the pill bugs from getting to and eating the leaves. Year before last, they killed a couple of my plants.
Etta Ludwig
Hello!
I have successfully started and transplanted the luffa seedlings to bigger pots.
I’m wondering if there is a companion plant to help them along, protect them from pests etc.
Your article made me laugh several times, thanks for that.
Best Regards,
Etta
Karen
Hi Etta! Honestly, in the garden I put them where they'll fit, lol. And I don't companion plant with anything. I just make sure to check their stems and leaves for signs of pests (wilt or vine borer) and give them plenty of water and compost. :) ~ karen!
Celeste
I'm growing luffa seeds from my 2019 harvested seeds. When I soak them they are floating. Is this a problem? All of them are very black so they look mature, but I'm not sure they are if they float. Any insights fellow luffa growers?
Thanks!
Karen
Hi Celeste. There seed might just be smaller and a bit underdeveloped so there's more air making it float? Total guess. I know I've some floaters too. It could still be viable though. I'd still plant it, but maybe double up on your seeding just in case. ~ karen!
Celeste
Thank you, Karen! I'll give it a shot.
gigi
This is a few years later than the original post, but still appropo. I'm wondering after you peel off the green skin, shake the seeds out, then how long do you dry them before you can use/gift them?
Does one slice them into rounds, use the whole peeled sponge while wet?
What are the options for storing and also gifting like you did Thanksgiving?
Karen
Hi Gigi. I update this post (and many others) on a yearly basis or so to add new information. :) You peel them, and then wash them vigorously. They're filled with guck. Then wash them (some people also bleach them) and they'll be dry and ready for use right away. :) ~ karen!
Diane Judge
Hi Karen! I’m Diane from the Chicago suburbs 5b, and I started just one plant that germinated easily on a heat mat in April in a solo cup. So not to disturb the roots, I just cut the bottom of the cup off and planted it with the solo cup and all into a 10 gallon fabric pot. I placed the fabric pot at the corner of my garage next to a downspout where it gets lots of water. Every other week I give it fertilizer and I’m hoping it’s going to climb up the garage escorted by a birdhouse gourd I have in another pot kitty corner from it. Wish me luck!
Karen
Good luck! ~ karen
Katie
I just told my sweetie that I wanna try growing loofahs! I have a hard time remembering to water...I hope they will work. I'll try it and let you know. BTW: we live in se NC (average precipitation of ~55 inches/year)...Growing zone 8a...We'll see! Fingers crossed :)
Claudia
Well don't I feel like an ignoramus! I am just gobsmacked!
Karen
It's O.K. The majority of people are stunned too, lol. ~ karen!
Scout
Wow! To your loofa commitment. I've gone on milkweed runs for monarch caterpillars during summer parties and everyone jumps in to cover while i'm gone. "Monarchs! Yes. We got this!" On Thanksgiving, maybe we can do "Loofas! Wait, what?" Just do it. It's cool.
Karen
LOL! It takes a certain level of commitment from family and friends, yes. ~ karen!
Izzy
OR you could just go buy a couple of them. 🙄
Karen
Well, that sounds like maybe a good thing for you to do. Then you can start a blog called The Art of Buying Stuff! ~ karen
TucsonPatty
😂😂 Touché ❤️
John Blatchford
Hi Karen,
A few questions:
Can you please tell me.
1) What sort of soil is best to grow in?
2) what distance between plants?
3) How many plants to make this commercially viable business?
4) What number of loofah's can I expect from a plant?
I live in Guernsey, Channel Islands, and have a large area of a greenhouse I can grow them.
Many thanks.
John
Karen
Hi John! To be honest, I don't pay much attention to soil and the numbers in it. 1) I just make sure to add lots of compost every year to ensure it has replenished nutrients every season. 2) I plant at 1' between luffas. 3) I have no idea I'm afraid. It depends on if you're talking about a part time business or a full time enterprise. They take up a lot of room, so to make it commercially viable you'd have to have lots of space for the luffas to grow. 4) The number of luffas you get per plant depends on where you live, the length of your season (how long the luffas have to grow) and luck, lol. The most important thing you can do to ensure the luffas on the vine will mature is to pinch off all the smaller ones that will never make it to maturity and all the flowers about a month and a half before your first frost date. This gives the established luffas all the plants energy to mature. ~ karen~
John Blatchford
Hi Karen,
Thank you very much for your answers to my questions.
As I have said I live on Guernsey, Channel Islands. You may not have heard of GY, but back in the day, we were a major producer of tomato's for the UK market's. So our growing season is long and good. Now I have available a large area approx. 40x50m (I can increase this area as time goes on) but I am only considering planting just 50-100 plants as a trial season.
I guess my questions are, when do I plant?... I am thinking quite soon.
How many loofahs per plant on average can I expect.
Many thanks
John
Melody
I apologize for asking this IF it was already asked in the 200+ comments above.....How far apart do you plant your plants once they go into the ground?
Karen
Hi Melody. I plant them about a foot apart if I have the room, but I haven't found that they're hindered by close planting. Other years when I don't have a lot of room I've planted them literally side by side, just making sure that the vines have enough room to sprawl. ~ karen!
Melody
Thank you Karen!! I appreciate you sharing your research with all of us. 😄
Melissa
Hi there! I’ve been growing for months now, but not a single one of mine is big! They all get to be about 6 inches long-what could be wrong? Thank you!
Karen
How many months Melissa? They might just need more time. In fact I'm almost positive that's all it is. :) Now, if they get to be 6" long and then fall off of the vine or die, it's because they aren't getting pollinated. ~ karen!
Jamie Johnson
Loved this post. I laughed so hard. I also learned a bit. I totally had the Sponge Bob picture in my head. I think we have a pretty similar growing season here in Michigan so I forwarded this to my mom who has the heat mats and a greenhouse. I'll let you know if she tries growing them this year.
Sharon Simpson
I’m in Scotland so think I’m doomed to fail but going to give it a go. My seeds have just arrived...